Distance of the coaxial chimney from the gas pipe

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Any owner or lover of a steam room understands that it is necessary to insulate the stove from the wooden wall in the bath, and, regardless of what material the rough walls are expelled from, all the same, the inner lining is made of wooden (most often lime) panels (lining).

It also depends little on the type of heater, which can be made of brick or metal, and run on solid fuel or electricity - in any case, the unit temperature will be very high or fire hazardous. Let's figure out how you can protect the cladding from fire and what is needed for this, and in addition, we bring to your attention a thematic video in this article.

Brickwork and heat-resistant paint provide excellent thermal insulation

Structure structure

So, if exactly brick flat masonry is used, then the easiest option for mounting a heating stove is to install a metal independent frame with a blower and chimney (more precisely, access to it).

All this remains to be overlaid with red heat-resistant brick (preferably red-hot, which has already passed through heating up to several thousand ° C). The laying structure can be either flat or with a coil (that is, a curly bend along the chimney, which allows you to leave more heat in the room than with a direct blowing system).

Diagram of a brick oven.

Similar systems can also be used when the stove is being set up in a bath. In this case, the structure is arranged in the opening between the rooms, where the most ordinary tree is used as a partition (meaning a blockhouse). Here the arrangement of the stove is complicated by the fact that it is necessary to isolate the wooden base from heat and heat. Here again you can use ceramic tiles and the most common heat-resistant bricks. The distance from the base itself (rough) and the slab should be at least 15 cm of the air gap. Only in this case can we say that the safety precautions have been fully complied with.

It is worth noting that after installing the stove, the adjacent wall is by no means covered with a layer of decorative plaster or similar building material. The best option is to cover it with tiles in a dark shade or make an air gap inside. But the last option is to reduce the performance of the heating structure, so it is better not to focus on it.

Arrangement of a stove in a brick wall in a residential building

So, if the wall is brick, then it is not necessary to prepare a recess in it for installing the stove. If there was a doorway in it earlier, you can use it. Everything will be much easier here. It is enough to cut a through hole with a side of 40-60 cm. A metal support is installed below, on which the entire structure will be located. Further, a box is formed from the back of the wall (naturally, you will have to make a rather long ledge under the chimney, because it also requires at least 40-50 cm). If necessary, an indent of 20 mm is made between the support and the floor. This is also needed for fire safety purposes. It remains only to install the stove in the wall and line it with bricks. Experts recommend doing this either white or red heat-resistant, but in half (that is, when the brick is placed lying down).

Foundation for a brick oven.

In the bathhouse, the stove is mounted in the same way if one of the walls there is also brick (for example, which is located between the changing room and the steam room).The only difference in the algorithm for installing the stove in a residential building and in a bath is the distance from the base of the floor. If in a residential building it is customary to put the stove as low as possible, then in the bath - higher in order to quickly fill the upper part of the steam room with warm or hot air. But still, there are no clear rules on how the stoves should be located in the bath. And not only traditional stoves can be used there, but even fireplaces, and even electric stoves, in which heating is carried out by convection of hot air.

Basic safety requirements

There are basic rules for installing a fireplace stove:

• careful reading of the instructions: never neglect to study the documentation if you are going to assemble and install the stove-fireplace yourself;
• the wall, near which the structure is mounted, is additionally protected with a refractory material - a layer of thermal insulation is applied to it;
• the distance between the fireplace and the wall must be at least 0.5 meters - especially if they are made of material that can burn;
• observe the distance from the top of the fireplace stove to the ceiling: it must be at least 1.2 m;
• the firebox door must be located at least 1.3 meters from the opposite wall;
• a sheet of metal is located on the floor in front of the door: this is required to protect the floor from flying sparks when fuel is loaded;
• the optimal location of the metal surface is 0.7 m long, 0.5 m wide (these are the minimum permissible values).

Correct laying of the stove

How to start laying a stove in a brick wall with your own hands? As mentioned above, from the formation of a depression under the chimney, the stove itself was blown. If the chimney has not yet been formed, it is done first. The best option is to form it from heat-resistant bricks at the maximum height, that is, without transitions. It is desirable that the upper part of the chimney is also located at about 4.5 m or higher. If it is lower, it will often blow into the furnace in a strong wind outside. Because of this, the smoke will go back into the blower and into the house, and not outside.

If the stove is mounted in an opening between a wooden wall, then part of the building structure will simply have to be removed. The wall is supported by a spacer. By the way, if the installation of the finishing of the stove will be carried out in one go, then it is allowed not to make thick inter-slope seams. You can do without them, simply by increasing the density of the mortar (adding more concrete) and reducing the distance of the masonry along the seam (instead of the usual 10 mm, make 5 or less).

Layout of the oven rows.

If you look at the shape of the furnace from above in section, it turns out that it consists of 4 compartments. This is the best option. Can be reduced to 3:

• blew;
• the combustion chamber;
• chimney (coil).

The fourth chamber in question is where the soot accumulates. This part can be completely abandoned only if the stove is mounted in a bath. There, the chimney must be cleaned 1-2 times a year anyway, since due to the accumulation of moisture, the outflow of smoke decreases, and sometimes the air duct becomes clogged. In this case, the stove accumulates all the soot in the chimney. It is recommended to make a removable door in the elbow (transition at a right angle) - it is there that all debris and other residues of solid fuel combustion products will accumulate.

When laying the stove, it is advisable to make the distance from the blower to the combustion chamber as much as possible. At the same time, it is better to make the transition between these chambers as narrow as possible - this way the speed of movement of air masses increases.

It will not be possible to build such a structure from brick alone, therefore experts recommend installing special metal nozzles.

Fortunately, they are relatively cheap. There are several advantages to this design.Firstly, the speed of the air flow increases, and secondly, the consumption of solid fuel and the efficiency of the heating structure decrease. Roughly speaking, this increases efficiency.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NRuK86L1VkI

Protective screens near (around) the oven

Shields are insulation shields that cover the side surfaces of the oven and reduce the intensity of heat radiation. Screens are metal and brick. Typically used for metal ovens.

The most common shields are factory-made steel or cast iron sheets. They are installed around the stove, at a distance of 1-5 cm from the walls of the firebox. Depending on the need to insulate one side or the other of the oven, side or front (front) screens can be purchased. Many metal ovens are initially manufactured with protective shields in the form of a protective casing.

Protective screens allow reducing the temperature of external metal surfaces to 80-100 ° C and, accordingly, reducing the fire-safe distance to 50 cm.The total distance from the firebox to the wall (together with a gap of 1-5 cm) will be 51-55 cm.

Installation of protective screens is not difficult. Thanks to the presence of legs, metal shields are easily bolted to the floor.

The brick screen can cover all the side surfaces of the metal furnace, representing its outer skin. Then the stove will be in a brickwork casing. In another case, the brick screen is a wall separating the oven and the flammable surface.

Walls adjacent to the hot oven walls are susceptible to spontaneous combustion. To prevent them from overheating, special skins are used, consisting of heat-insulating and non-combustible materials.

Claddings consisting of a combination of non-combustible thermal insulation and metal sheets are effective. At the same time, thermal insulation is attached to the wooden surface, which is covered from above with a sheet of stainless steel. Some people use galvanizing for these purposes, but, according to some reports, when heated, it can emit harmful substances. It is better not to risk it and purchase a stainless steel sheet.

To be effective, the metal sheet of the screen must be well polished. The mirrored surface helps to reflect heat rays from the wooden surface and, accordingly, prevents it from heating. In addition, a sheet of stainless steel, directing infrared rays back to the steam room, turns hard radiation into a softer one, better perceived by a person.

As thermal insulation under a stainless steel, you can fix:

• Basalt wool - it has high thermal insulation properties, it is absolutely safe when used in a bath. Has increased hygroscopicity, does not burn.
• Basalt cardboard - thin sheets of basalt fiber. It is used as a fireproof, sound and heat insulating material.
• Asbestos cardboard - sheet refractory heat insulator. Possesses high strength and durability, protects combustible surfaces from ignition.
• Minerite - non-combustible sheets (plates), specially made for shielding stoves, fireplaces, easily combustible surfaces in baths and saunas.

A popular example of cladding using a metal sheet is such a "pie": wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - insulation (1-2 cm) - stainless steel sheet. The distance from the wooden wall to the stove is at least 38 cm (SNiP 41-01-2003).

Ceramic bushings are used to fasten the cladding to the wall. They do not heat up and allow the formation of ventilation gaps between the insulation and the wall.

If the distance between the wooden wall and the stove is minimal, then the cladding is made of two layers of refractory insulation, for example, minerite. In this case, the sheets are fixed through ceramic bushings with a gap of 2-3 cm. The top sheet is closed with stainless steel.

Of course, the protective sheathing with stainless steel perfectly protects the wooden walls from heat and fire. But it can spoil the impression of the most expensive finishes. Therefore, if the steam room is designed in a decorative style, the fireproof cladding is masked with heat-resistant tiles. The tiles are laid on heat-resistant glue, for example, produced by Terracotta.

The best materials for wall cladding near the stove:

• Terracotta tiles - made of baked clay. Differs in strength, heat resistance, durability. Terracotta tiles can be matte or glazed (majolica) and range in color from pastel yellow to brick red.
• Clinker tiles are also made of clay, they look like facing bricks. Unlike terracotta, clinker tiles are denser. The color scheme covers almost all colors, from white to black, including green and blue tones that are unusual for clay.
• Tiles are a kind of ceramic tiles. Usually it has an embossing on the front surface in the form of a pattern or ornament.
• Porcelain stoneware is a heat-resistant, durable tile. Depending on the method of processing the front surface, the tiles can imitate natural stone, brick, wood. The range of colors includes all natural shades, from white to black.
• Talcochlorite is a grayish or greenish rock. Possesses fire resistance, water resistance, durability.

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Fastening refractory tiles directly to walls will not have a thermal insulation effect. The wall will still heat up, which is fraught with spontaneous combustion. Therefore, the tile is used only as an element of the protective "pie" of the following design: wall - ventilation gap (2-3 cm) - refractory sheet material - tiles. It is recommended to maintain a minimum of 15-20 cm from the tiles to the walls of the stove.

Any material from this list can be used as a refractory element in cladding:

• Refractory gypsum board (GKLO) is a drywall supplemented with fiberglass fibers. Resists heat stress without structural deformation.
• Minerite is a fiber-cement board, absolutely non-combustible. Minerite slabs are moisture resistant, do not rot, do not decompose.
• Glass-magnesium sheet (MSL) is a material in the form of plates, made on the basis of magnesia binder and glass fabric. It has heat and sound insulating properties, does not deteriorate under the influence of water and temperature extremes.

The protective sheathing with the mandatory observance of the ventilation gap has a very low heat absorption coefficient, so the wall under it practically does not heat up. In addition, the use of cladding makes it possible to disguise the protective "cake" and maintain the finishing of the steam room in the same style.

The most durable and reliable barrier that prevents excessive heating of the wall surface from the heat of the stove is the air space between them. Subject to all the distances established by standard regulatory documents, you can be 100% sure that there is no reason to fear heating the walls from the stove body.

According to the standards taken from SNiP 2.04.05-91, the distance from the furnace to an unprotected wall that has a REI 60 fire resistance limit should be at least 500 mm (in diagram A), that is, half a meter. If you install a dense sheet of non-combustible material (minerite or glass magnesite) on the wall and additionally fix a reflective stainless steel layer on it, then this standard distance is reduced to 380 mm (in diagram B).

Also, the dimensions of the parts of the structure of the protective screen, which protrude beyond the dimensions of the furnace (in diagram C), are regulated. This distance should be taken into account when calculating the material by at least 150 mm. As for the distance from the firebox door to the wall opposite it, it cannot be less than 1250 mm (in diagram F).

Of course, this is not an excuse for violating fire safety standards established by special responsible authorities based on experimental scientific research. At the same time, manufacturers of Finnish stoves in the technological documents for their products indicate other figures for the safe placement of their metal stoves in the walls of the steam room. For example, when installing a protective screen, the permissible distance to the wall is only 250 mm.

The basis for creating a thermal barrier is non-combustible sheet material. Glass-magnesite (LSU) or minerite slabs are used as such material. Their installation is carried out through a sleeve, on a wooden frame or directly on the wall surface. The safest way to install this protective layer is to mount on self-tapping screws through a special metal or ceramic sleeve with a length of 3 cm. An example of the location of a thermal barrier with an illustration of the appearance of the sleeve in the image below.

Next, we will consider a scheme of a very effective two-layer protective screen using various refractory technologies.

Here you can see essentially two protective screens. The one closest to the wall is made of fire-resistant gypsum board GKLO installed on metal profiles. An additional reflective layer is made of foil fixed directly to the wall. On top of the drywall, the minerite slabs were mounted on self-tapping screws through a 3-cm porcelain stoneware sleeve. Heat-insulating boards are finished with tiles, which are laid on heat-resistant glue.

Now we will give examples of simpler, but well-proven methods of creating a thermal barrier. First, let's figure out how the partition is made in the steam room, into which the furnace window of the furnace comes out.

This structure is made of a glass-magnesium sheet (MSL) 10 mm thick, which is attached to a metal frame with basalt insulation inside.

The walls near the stove are also protected by a layer of magnesite glass on metal profiles, finished with ceramic granite tiles on heat-resistant glue.

The minimum distance from such a screen to the furnace should be 10-12 cm. It is very important to use a high-quality 10-mm glass magnesite sheet LSU Premium, not Standard. In terms of characteristics, these two types of material differ markedly. It is also important to take into account that when manufacturing a thermal barrier, it is optimal to install a layer of non-combustible material in two layers.

When organizing wall protection, we must not forget about the correct insulation of the floor.

Under the stove, it is imperative to at least place a glass-magnesium plate and a reflective metal sheet.

The most common option for thermal protection for walls is the installation of magnesite glass on a metal frame finished with cream granite tiles.

It is imperative to take either a heat-resistant mastic for laying tiles, or heat-resistant glue and use LSU boards only of the Premium or Lux class.

Another similar technology without the use of a frame - a glass-magnesium sheet was attached directly to the foil vapor barrier of the walls.

Operation of the stove in a brick wall

Does the operation of a stove in a brick wall differ from the usual one, which are mounted in residential buildings together with a gas heating system? Firstly, the change of the type of fuel cannot physically take place here. Secondly, the heating must be distributed over the entire wall in order to prevent the brick from burning in the rough (this can even provoke a fire). Thirdly, the combustion chambers that are placed in such stoves have a shallower depth, but a wider width for convenient stacking of firewood. Those that are placed in the bath have a great height. The reason is similar, that is, for the convenience of stacking firewood and other solid fuels.

During operation, the heat-resistant brick will warm up to 1200 ° C. This factor should be taken into account, since the inside of the chimney will have almost the same temperature.In the event that a reverse air flow is allowed (due to an incorrectly formed chimney coil), this will certainly lead to a fire.

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In any case, a properly formed furnace is the key to its safe operation on any type of solid fuel. In a stove that is mounted in the wall, the main thing is to observe the correct supply of oxygen to maintain the burning of wood or coal. And the nozzles that are placed between the combustion chamber and the blower perform exactly this function.

Basic rules for installing a chimney

1. The installation of a gas boiler should be carried out only when all the rules for installing the chimney are observed.
2. It is necessary to observe the correct selection of the parameters of the chimney, on which the further operation of the gas boiler depends.
3. It is important that all installation work is performed by highly qualified workers, while observing all fire safety rules.
4. All manufacturer's recommendations must be followed.
5. It is necessary to choose the diameter of the flue duct the same diameter as that of the device itself, or perhaps slightly larger.
6. The air flow in the chimney must have a speed of 10-25 meters per second (NPB-98).