How to fix polystyrene to the wall: fixing with fungi

Fastening foam to a wooden wall can be done in a variety of ways, and the choice of one technology or another depends on the design features and the type of finish. It is important to choose the best option that will provide high levels of thermal insulation and will protect structures from adverse influences. In this review, we will figure out how to carry out the work and what factors to pay special attention to.

In the photo: Styrofoam is often used in the construction of ventilated facade systems.

What you need to know about this insulation option

We note right away that polystyrene is not the most popular solution for wooden buildings for a number of reasons:

Low vapor permeability	As you know, for the best preservation of wood, it is necessary that moisture from the material can evaporate unhindered, but if the surface is covered with polystyrene, then the moisture has nowhere to go, and condensation can form inside the wood, therefore, it is necessary to install high-quality exhaust ventilation of a wooden house
Material stiffness	If you are using mineral wool, it can be inserted into a wooden batten and it will hold without any additional fastening. Styrofoam can also be arranged in a similar way, but in the process, the sheets may crumble.
The need to seal joints	After the completion of the fastening, the cracks are necessarily sealed in order to exclude the penetration of cold, this complicates the process and makes it more laborious. Do not neglect this stage, since the result of the work largely depends on the isolation of the joints.

Important! You should select high-quality foam, you should not save and purchase low-density materials, they are very fragile and can break even in the process. In addition, it is advisable to use insulation with flame retardant additives in the composition, it is much more resistant to fire.

Warming methods

We insulate the house with foam from the outside:

Insulation of the house outside

The solution to the issue of warming a wooden house is possible without the invitation of specialists; basic skills in working with building materials are enough. It is important that thermal insulation with foam is possible both from the inside of the building and from the outside.

But practice shows that external or external insulation of the house is preferable for a number of reasons:

Insulation on the outer walls will last longer as it will be better ventilated.
The external structure will not only serve as insulation, but also to protect the walls from negative natural factors.
External thermal insulation will not reduce the internal living space.
Work can be carried out in a populated house without disturbing the internal order.

Mounting types

We figured out whether it is possible to sheathe a wooden house with foam, and came to the conclusion that this option is advisable when installing a high-quality ventilation system. Now let's look at how to attach the sheets to the surface.

Lathing

Instructions for doing work with your own hands are as follows:

First of all, a frame is attached to the surface, in which the insulation will be located, the width of the spans should be 5 mm less than the width of the sheets in order to insert them tightly.
Sheets are placed from bottom to top, if we are talking about walls, or from any convenient side, if the ceiling is being processed. After finishing work, it is necessary to check the surface for joints and cracks. If they are, then you need to seal them up with polyurethane foam.

If a rough wooden floor is insulated, then a special vapor-permeable membrane is laid along the base

Using special mounts

Consider how to attach foam to a wooden wall using special fasteners, which are hats with a diameter of 5 centimeters or more and self-tapping screws, the length of which should be sufficient to securely fix the insulation to the wall.

A special hold-down washer is called a rondole and has a special cover in the design that covers the screw head

The work technology is as follows:

First of all, the base should be prepared - if there are gaps or significant irregularities in it, then they must be repaired to ensure the best effect.
The working process is carried out as follows: fastening is made from bottom to top, each sheet is fixed with several fasteners. The diagram below shows an option for saving fasteners, you do not need to hammer all five rondoles into one sheet, you can fix the element in the middle, and use the rest in the corners, that is, they will hold several sheets at once, which several times reduces the consumption of materials.

Competent arrangement of the clamping elements allows you to use one squeegee for four sheets at once

After completing the work, it is necessary to carefully inspect the surface and, if there are gaps, they must be filled with foam.

Gluing

A very reliable option, and its only drawback is the high price of the compositions, which is especially noticeable with large volumes of work.

The technology is simple, but it requires accuracy:

Before gluing the foam to the wood, it is necessary to level the surface, otherwise, with drops, the consumption of the adhesive will increase significantly, and the reliability of the connections may decrease.
Next, you need to decide how to glue the foam to the wood, there are two main options: polyurethane foam or a special adhesive, which is produced in the same cylinders as the foam, but has improved properties and increased yield. The second option is preferable, so try to use it.

For glue, the same guns are used as for polyurethane foam

The surface must be free of dust and free from wet areas, as this negatively affects the adhesion of the composition. The composition itself is applied to the sheets by any option convenient for you - a snake, along the perimeter, dots. The most important thing is reliability, and the rest of the nuances do not matter.

The composition is applied to the foam sheet just before it is attached

Then the element is pressed tightly for a few seconds, after which it can be released, the glue begins to set within half an hour, complete solidification occurs in 24 hours.

Remember! The final stage is the sealing of cracks at the joints, it can be carried out either with the same adhesive composition or with polyurethane foam, there is no fundamental importance here.

Installation of extruded polystyrene foam: video

Naturally, the process of installing material on walls, floors or foundations is impossible without some preparation. First, you should prepare the material itself for the mount, and then the walls (floor or ceiling) of the building.

Preparatory work

To prepare polystyrene sheets for installation, they need to be processed, that is, cut to one size or another. You should also select an adhesive composition and elements for attaching the material to walls or other surfaces.

The glue should be applied to the insulation sheet for about an hour before docking with a surface.

If we plan to insulate the walls, then their entire surface must be cleaned of dirt and all unnecessary in advance:

old cladding;
old fasteners;
irregularities;
protrusions;
gaps;
cracks.

Using a putty mixture gaps and crevices should be repairedso they don't get in the way. If there is a very noticeable curvature, the surface must be equipped with a leveling layer of the mixture.And if you cannot remove the convex places before installation, then the sheets of insulation must be slightly trimmed inside.

Also, do not forget to treat the walls with deep penetration soil.

How to install extruded polystyrene foam under siding

To install this material under siding, you need to put a vertical crate made on the basis of pine needles and treated with an antiseptic, or from galvanized metal profiles. You need to fix it to the facade of the building. keeping pace within 40 cm... In this case, use dowels and control the level of the plane of the frame.
Expanded polystyrene must be placed between its guides, then it is fastened with disc dowels. Further, the layer of insulation must be covered with a membrane that protects from the wind, which will remove the moisture from their layer of thermal insulation to the outside.

Between the thermal insulation layer and the cladding, you need to consider the presence of a ventilation gap. To do this, install another lathing with a step of 30 cm guides. The height of the gap should be approximately 1.5 cm. Then, the siding panels should be attached to the frame guides.

How to install the material under the facade plaster

So that the thermal insulation layer does not lose its integrity, polystyrene foam sheets need join with cut pieces... If too large gaps appear between them, they are sealed with liquid polystyrene foam or wedge-shaped pieces of insulation.

In this case, polyurethane foam cannot be used, since it can spread the insulation layer and thereby violate its integrity. The joints between the thermal insulation must be sanded with a float.

For attaching expanded polystyrene sheets, disc dowels are used, equipped with hats in the form of umbrellas, which help to press the heat-insulating material to the wall surface. If you take other elements for fastening, such as nails or self-tapping screws, there will be a high risk that, under the influence of atmospheric phenomena the thermal insulation layer is deformed... After the installation process is over, the dowel heads must be carefully putty.

Features of the use of disc dowels when fastening

When installing insulation by means of disc dowels, you can use special adhesives. This is especially advisable in the presence of irregularities on the surface, as well as all kinds of pits and defects.
Extruded polystyrene sheet you need soak in glue and press against the wall. The glue mixture should be applied using special combs, which are usually used when laying tiles from tiles.

It is necessary to alternate layers of glue so that the sheets fit better to each other, regardless of the unevenness at the base of the wall.

After the glue has dried, you need to make holes for the disc dowels using a hammer drill or hammer drill. They are not recommended to be installed until the glue is completely dry, since during installation the sheets may shift or press in too much, and this will require additional costs of putty and plaster. The dowel should be put on the edges of sheets and at their center.

Installation options and their advantages

Fastening foam to the wall with fungi

Today, several popular methods of fixing foam are used, often dry or wet adhesive, dowels, or a combined fixing method are used.

Often, adhesives are used for the internal insulation of a building.

This method has certain advantages, is convenient and quick to use.

It is enough just to knead the adhesive solution or buy a ready-made one. This material allows for good adhesion to walls or other structures. To complete the interior decoration of the room, such actions will be enough.

If you carry out insulation work from the outside of the building, you can use dowels and glue at the same time. Such a decision may be justified, since in the future it will be necessary to perform the facing of the building.

The material used for the insulation must withstand the load exerted on it, so for greater confidence it is better to use additional foam fasteners to the wall.

Often, special umbrella dowels are used for additional fastening. The length of the dowel is determined by the material from which the wall is made, as well as by the thickness of the insulating layer:

You need to drive the dowel into the brick to a depth of 9 cm.
For concrete, 5 cm is enough.
Blocks with structural cells require a 12 cm depression.

Such dowels are simply irreplaceable for outdoor decoration, since they are able to fix the foam on the wall much more reliably than conventional glue.

Fastening with a U-shaped bracket (120 mm)

The bracket (U-shape) is mostly used for the installation of plasterboard panels. This is the most cost-effective method, the technology of which is simple and applicable to all types of walls. Further on these brackets can be mounted a profile for attaching the external facade.

First, U-images are mounted on the wall in rows at such a distance that each sheet of foam is "grabbed" at four points. The attachment point should be no more than 20-30 mm away from the edge of the sheet. Lay the sheets so that the protruding step of the sheet is facing down.
We take a sheet of penoplex and apply it to the U-images in such a way that indentation marks are obtained on the back side.
With a knife or a special cutter, cut through holes at the marks.
We fix the foam sheet on the wall, threading the U-shape into the cut holes.
We trim the sheet by pressing the penoplex firmly against the wall (without bending the antennae). Be very careful about the fasteners of the first sheet. Position it strictly horizontally and vertically.
.
After a rough cut of two rows, remove the sheets so that later you can easily find the desired element.
Having processed the walls with an antibacterial soil solution of deep penetration (preferably in two passes) and letting the wall dry, proceed to the clean installation of the foam.
When finishing installation, be sure to pass the vertical seam with foam. For the best application of polyurethane foam, use a special gun.
This will save your nerves and save foam consumption.
Go through the upper joint of the lower row with the wall with polyurethane foam. If this operation is performed together, then everything is simple: one applies the foam, the other fixes and presses the sheets. If this is done by one person, then apply a layer of foam on two or three sheets, mount the top ones and thus continue on.

This method of fastening is quick and less expensive than the conventional one. If, at the end of the installation of the entire wall, small gaps appear between the sheets (the penoplex has deviations in linear dimensions), they must be sealed with polyurethane foam. In the future, these gaps must be glued with a special tape, which is desirable to glue on the "fresh" penoplex, without leaving this operation for a long time.

Preparation for insulation

Before installing insulating elements using special fastening elements, you need to prepare the wall. If the base is prepared correctly, the installation of the insulation will be of the highest quality, reliable and fast.

Fastening the foam to the wall with dowels

You will have to perform the following sequence of actions:

It is advisable to clean the surface of the wall from all protruding elements that may interfere with the insulation process.
Using high-quality mortars, it is imperative to level the walls. It is not recommended to leave drops larger than 1 cm.
Cracks are treated with polyurethane foam or cement-sand mortar.
To prevent the appearance of mold and mildew, it is advisable to treat the wall surface with an antiseptic.
Before insulation, the prepared surface must be covered with a primer.

When foam is used as insulation elements, a special support strip made of a metal or wooden profile is mounted at the bottom of the wall. In width, such a bar should correspond to the thickness of the insulation.

When such a bar is fixed, you need to make sure that it is in a horizontal position using a building level. When using such a base, the foam boards will not move downward under the pressure of their weight.

Preparing the walls for laying

For high-quality work, it is necessary to process the wall from all kinds of irregularities, but if there are protruding elements, then under them you will need to make cuts and glue around the perimeter.
The next step will be to work on the processing of all depressions, scratches. They must be repaired and aligned with the wall as much as possible. It is not necessary to achieve perfect smoothness of the wall. It is enough that the material is flat against it. This can be checked by applying a vertical level. It is better to clean the surface of the wall from old paint, putty and other finishing materials, as they can interfere with good gluing of the insulation, which will lead to its poor fastening or lagging from the wall.
Then, when all these manipulations have been done, you need to look at the evenness of the resulting wall using the level. If there are drops of 4-5 cm, then they can be easily adjusted with the future solution. Excessive swings are highly undesirable.
The next step is to pull out and measure the bottom layer of the wall. Insulation laying begins strictly from the bottom upwards in a horizontal position.

The choice of dowels and their location

Dowel dowels are considered an indispensable element for fixing foam in the process of its outdoor use. Such elements insure materials against bursting under their own weight and detachment from the wall. There are several popular dowel patterns.

If the polystyrene is glued to the hardened plaster mortar, the number of fasteners should be maximum. If the base is more durable, 2-5 dowels per 1 sq. m.

If, for some reason, plaster remains on the wall, the thickness of such a layer must be taken into account when determining the length of the dowel. The fact is that the mechanical fastening should be wedged in a sufficiently strong base, and not in hardened concrete.

Before starting the insulation work, you need to determine the thickness of the plaster layer over the entire wall area. The length of the dowels is set accordingly.

Fastening insulation

Fixing the foam with dowels is performed in the following sequence:

The material must be anchored at least 4 hours after it has been attached. This is to ensure that the hardened adhesive is not destroyed during the installation of the foam fasteners.
On the perforator along the length of the dowel used, you need to install a special stop for the most accurate drilling depth.
The disc dowel is inserted into the drilled hole. The plastic core is neatly driven into the dowel and wedges it into the hole.
The dowel must be driven in so that it presses the insulation lightly. It is extremely undesirable to crush the foam, this can lead to a deterioration in the thermal insulation characteristics.

If the core does not fit normally, it is enough to replace the damaged drill and make a normal hole.

Fastening to a tree

Fastening foam to wood

To determine the correct way to attach the foam to a wooden wall, you need to familiarize yourself with the modern technologies used:

Fixation between the battens.
Using special nails.
Adhesive composition.
Polyurethane foam.

Fasteners for foam plastic to wood in the form of special nails are used quite often, since such elements reliably hold the sheets. However, every place where such nails were used must be putty.

It should also be taken into account that metal elements will transmit cold through the insulation to the wall. A similar problem can be solved by using plastic fungi, as is the case with a brick wall.

Adhesives require a lot of care when used. This material should be sufficiently moisture resistant and not be afraid of temperature changes. Often a cement mortar is used for this with the addition of a small amount of glue. Conventional polyurethane foam is rarely used to fix foam. It is often used only to fill gaps.

Fastening to wood surfaces

Methods for fixing foam boards to wood are different. It should be borne in mind that if the constant flow of air is blocked to the wood and it cannot "breathe", then the process of decay will begin. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap. Installation of slabs is carried out in a previously prepared lathing made of bars. It is imperative to make a layer of vapor barrier.

As a rule, the fixation of the foam is carried out using metal nails or plastic fungi. In the second case, the thermal insulation is better. You can also use an adhesive solution, but it is important to correctly choose a composition that is resistant to changes in temperature and humidity. It is recommended to use a compound containing glue and cement.

Is Styrofoam So Good?

Wood is a material that "breathes" and this is the main advantage of wooden houses. Therefore, there are doubts about the insulation of a house made of wood with foam. Some people argue that it is possible and necessary to do this, others are sure that under the foam the tree will start to rot. However, experts say that this can be done, but only with a "breathing" insulation. Otherwise, you will rob the building of its benefits.

There is a rule that says: the vapor permeability of materials towards the street should increase so that moisture does not escape to the outside. If this rule is neglected, then moisture will condense on the border of a dense material, which comes out of the room, which leads to the formation of condensation and decay of wood. Therefore, vapor permeability is a very important factor when choosing a heater.

Polyfoam has a lower vapor permeability than wood, so this is not the best option for insulation. But when organizing a high-quality ventilation system, the amount of escaping steam will be minimal, therefore, there will be no harm from it. Therefore, if you have a well-designed ventilation, then the foam can be used to insulate a wooden house.

Important! Under no circumstances use this material to insulate rooms and buildings with high humidity (baths, saunas, kitchens, and so on).

Installation process

Before starting the insulation, it is necessary to check all the joints between the logs or beams. If the insulating material is uneven, renew it and fill the voids with polyurethane foam. Next, boards are nailed vertically to the wall - so that their outer surface is flush with the plane of the wall. If necessary, then this will require cutting off individual logs. In the center of these boards, slats are nailed, which will serve as a frame. The installation step of the slats should be 5 millimeters less than the width of the insulation.

Next, the foam is inserted into the frame, starting from the bottom. If the distance of the frame is maintained correctly, then the material will be held in it due to the interference. If the sheets fall out, then they should be secured with foam wedges or nails.The main condition is that there are no gaps between them. Next, a diffusion membrane is placed on the material. It is fastened with a stapler, and the joints are glued with tape. After that, you can sheathe the wall with the selected facing material.

Important! When installing the diffusion membrane, carefully read the instructions for use so that it fits the right side to the insulation.

How to glue styrofoam to wood?

Having figured out how to insulate a house with foam, it is necessary to dwell in more detail on the methods of fixing it. There are several ways to do this:

Fastening between the crate by means of an interference fit (as described above);
Installation with special nails (fungi);
Fastening with adhesives;
Fastening with polyurethane foam.

The use of special nails is a fairly common practice when installing insulation, because they securely hold the sheets. But she has a drawback, which is the need to putty all the places where nails are hammered. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that metal nails will act as an additional bridge for the cold, because the metal conducts it well. You can solve this problem with the help of plastic fungi.

Adhesives do not have problems like nails, but you need to be very careful when choosing them. So, the glue must be necessarily resistant to moisture and temperature changes, otherwise it will be useless. Most often, cement mortar with the addition of glue is used for this. As for the polyurethane foam, it is rarely used for fastening, mainly, it is needed to fill all the gaps.

Advice! It should be noted that the most effective method of fastening is considered to be the "planting" of sheets on a cement mortar and their further strengthening with nails.

A little about extruded polystyrene foam

Many people think that insulating a wall from the outside with a special material is expensive, and it is difficult to fix it during installation, but this is far from the case. After all, we meet with this material every day in everyday life, calling it simply foam. Expanded polystyrene is an ordinary white foam, which consists of small granules, grouped in the form of panels and sheets. Foam granules contain air inside, so this insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Wall insulation scheme with expanded polystyrene.

Foams are made from polystyrene mixed at high temperatures with foamed components based on freon or carbon dioxide. To obtain granules of new material, the mixture is passed under high pressure through a die with small holes that determine the size of the granules. Then, in a special compartment, sheets and panels are formed from the resulting mixture. Thus, we get a ready-made thermal insulation material familiar to us, which is used to insulate the house outside and inside.

A big drawback of foam is its high fragility, because it breaks down, experiencing even small loads, therefore, when insulating a house from the outside, it must be fastened very carefully. But an alternative to it was an analogue of extruded polystyrene foam. This material has the same properties as polystyrene, but at the same time it has good elasticity. In addition, the new insulation does not crumble, is resistant to high compression loads, has a high density and is waterproof. This is a new heat-insulating material that is made by melting pellets together in a special device called an extruder.

Insulation scope

Scheme of bonding polystyrene foam with plywood: a) gluing on a smooth joint; b) gluing on a microthorn; c) gluing on a 10mm toothed spike; d) “tongue-and-groove”; e) an insertable dowel (“key”).

Expanded polystyrene is indispensable for floor insulation, since it does not affect the height of the room, in addition, it is used when installing floor heating systems. Such insulation is often used for buildings in which the floors are laid directly on the ground or on a specially prepared floor base. Extruded polystyrene foam is well suited for rooms with low temperatures, is able to withstand heavy mechanical loads, and is moisture resistant. Expanded polystyrene boards must be fixed directly to the concrete base, while avoiding the intersection of the installed insulation boards with concrete joints.

Another area of application of extruded polystyrene foam is thermal insulation of the walls of the house. It can be done both outside and inside. If possible, it is best to insulate the walls from the outside. It is advisable to do insulation inside if it is necessary to quickly insulate the building, if the house is old, and there is no other possibility to make insulation if the apartment is on a high floor and insulation from the outside is impossible. Basements are insulated with expanded polystyrene, and also used for basement insulation. When a monolithic foundation is being erected, the extruded polystyrene foam can be fixed as a permanent formwork, which makes it possible to use less reinforcement and concrete. In addition, it extends the service life of reinforced concrete foundations and basement walls.

This heat-insulating material is used if it is necessary to insulate balconies and loggias to increase the living space. In this case, a frame is made in which it is placed, and then everything is sewn up with plywood. Since expanded polystyrene withstands high mechanical loads, low temperatures and does not lend itself to deformation, it is used in road construction.

Installation of extruded polystyrene foam

Floor insulation with expanded polystyrene.

If you choose which insulator to mount, then it is better to give preference to extruded foam, although its price is twice as high. There are several options for how to fix extruded polystyrene foam when insulating walls from the outside. This can be done with:

glue;
cement mortar;
special mastic;
the use of mounting devices.

When performing thermal insulation from the outside, it is necessary not only to insulate the house, but also to protect the expanded polystyrene with the help of some kind of non-combustible material: brick, various plasters, ceramic tiles, steel or aluminum profiles. According to building codes, there must be a gap for ventilation between the finish and the thermal insulation material. This makes it possible for the insulation to remain always dry, otherwise it loses its thermal insulation qualities. But with this method, the area of the room is reduced, therefore, a different method is used during installation.

To separate the insulation from the outer wall, special materials are used that have certain properties. For external walls, a waterproofing material must be used to protect the heat insulator from moisture. To do this, you can use roofing material or glassine. In order to prevent moisture from acting on the insulation from the inside of the room, they use the so-called vapor barrier materials, which include ordinary plastic film. In the modern construction market, there is a wide selection of both waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

What is the best way to attach the foam to the wall

In order not to heat the air outside the house, the owners try to install thermal insulation. For this, a wide variety of materials are used, ranging from mineral wool to foam.

The most popular due to its technical characteristics and affordable price is foam. To reduce the cost of work, the owners do all the work on their own. Therefore, they often ask questions, how to fix the foam to the wall?

Mounting methods

In order for the insulation to fulfill its task, it must be properly fixed to the base. Professional craftsmen use several methods for attaching foam:

On the adhesive. This option is suitable if the insulation will not be used as a basis for heavy finishing material.
With fasteners. A more reliable method, but also suitable for spruce foam, it is planned to install a weighty decorative finish.
A combination of the first and second options. The use of glue and dowels allows for the most reliable fixation.

Preparatory stage

First you need to buy all the necessary materials and tools that may come in handy during the installation process:

Insulation. The required quantity is preliminarily calculated and must be bought with a margin. During transportation and even during the fastening process, the plates can be damaged, therefore, several sheets in stock will not be damaged.
Start profile.
Adhesive composition suitable for outdoor use. You also need to pay attention to whether it is suitable for attaching foam.
Fasteners (dowel-fungus) if this method was chosen for fixing.
Deep penetration soil.
Roller or wide paint brush (for applying primer).
Sealant.
Perforator.

After all the inventory and materials have been purchased, you can begin to prepare the base. For this you need:

Remove old decorative trim.

If there are areas that crumble, then they are eliminated.
Remove all elements of the facade that interfere with the installation process of the insulation.
All cracks and depressions with a depth exceeding 5 mm are to be closed. For foam, it doesn't matter that the base is perfectly flat. But if there are large depressions, then with mechanical stress, cracks may appear both on the insulation itself and on the decorative finish. And this reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation.
Cleans up stains and traces of mildew or mildew.
The last step in preparing the base will be the use of deep penetration soil. Areas of constant exposure to moisture (basement, foundation) are especially carefully passed.

Only after the soil has dried can you start installing the foam in the chosen way. Now let's take a closer look at each method.

Preparing for installation

Preparation of sheets of material. The process of preparing sheets of insulation for installation consists in their processing (cutting to the required size), as well as in the choice of adhesives and fasteners, with which the insulation material will be fixed on the walls of the structure. Adhesives should be applied to heat insulator sheets about an hour before they dock with the surface to be insulated.

Preparation of the walls of the building. The insulated surface of the walls must be cleaned of dirt and all unnecessary elements (old cladding, protrusions and irregularities, fasteners) must be removed. Slots and gaps are sealed with putty mixtures. If the walls have a significant indicator of surface curvature, then a rough leveling layer is applied. You can detect surface irregularities (dips and bulges) using a nylon cord. If it is impossible to remove the bulges on the surface, the sheets of heat insulator should be cut from the inside.

The preparation of the walls ends with their processing with deep penetration soils.

For adhesive composition

For a secure hold, you need to choose an adhesive that is suitable for outdoor use. Be sure to pay attention to the frost resistance of the composition, because it will be exposed to this effect more than once. And be sure to keep in mind that not all adhesive solutions are suitable for working with foam. When buying, read the label, manufacturers indicate for which materials the products are suitable.

For those who are wondering how to properly fix the foam with glue, now we will analyze the step-by-step instructions.

Setting up a start profile. It is fixed around the perimeter of the entire building. It is on it that the entire construction of the insulation will rely, because its width corresponds to the thickness of the foam plastic slab. It is imperative to ensure that the profile is installed clearly horizontally. For this, a building level is used.
The profile is fixed with dowel-nails.
Adhesive mortar preparation. Everything must be done clearly according to the instructions on the package.
Glue application. The solution is applied to the entire surface of the insulation with a thickness of up to 1 cm.In this case, you should not save money, because the reliability of fixing the plate will depend on the amount of glue.
Installation of the stove. The first sheet of foam is placed in the starting profile from the corner of the building. You need to apply a little pressure on it in order for the element to be securely fixed.
The next sheet is laid, stepping back 5 mm from the previous one.
Fastening the next rows. Top slabs should be staggered so that the seams do not line up. And between the rows, you also need to leave a small gap.
After all the boards have been installed, the gaps are filled with sealant. You should not use polyurethane foam.

The final stage will be decorative finishing. It can only be done after the glue is completely dry.

How to attach expanded polystyrene to the wall?

All the walls are prepared and it remains to proceed with the installation of the insulation itself. To carry out the work, you need to follow the step-by-step work. So, the laying instructions:

The first task should be to putty the walls with a solution, on which the insulation itself will lie. The overlay layer should be dense and solid. You can also take a special glue for laying, on which you can put a reinforced mesh. Expanded polystyrene sheets are installed independently as tightly as possible to each other. The resulting gaps are processed and filled with scraps of foam.
The mounting itself is overlapped. This situation has a good effect on strength and prevents the formation of possible gaps. For maximum efficiency, the technique of alternating horizontal and vertical masonry is used, then the seams will be the same both in length and in height of the wall.
Now the glue is diluted as indicated on the manufacturer's packaging. The resulting solution is applied in an even layer using a spatula with teeth 8 cm wide. First, in the center, and then in the corners, zigzag lines are made. The adhesive on the tiles should occupy up to 40% of the area.

Fastening thermal insulation material
In the strip that runs over the entire area of the tile, it is necessary to leave small gaps through which oxygen will subsequently pass. After the glue is applied, you need to wait for it to dry for 10-15 minutes. During this period, the tiles must have already been installed.
When all the plates are installed, and the fixing of the expanded polystyrene to the wall is also completed, they are fixed with special fasteners with mushroom caps. They are attached first in the center and at all corners. In total, there are 5 pieces per sheet of insulation. To insert this fastener into the sheet, you need to drill a hole in it with a drill at a distance of 4-5 cm. Our dowel is inserted into the finished hole.
It is necessary to add reinforcement mesh to the polystyrene foam layer when all the fasteners are installed and the adhesive layer is dry. On top of the mesh, another layer of glue is laid with a special roller in order to completely drown it inward. This is a reinforcing layer for insulation.
When the glue dries, you can treat the surface with decorative plasters, primers or level the layer. Then you should paint over it.
The laying and installation of expanded polystyrene is completed.

On fasteners

To attach the foam in this way, you need to purchase special dowels with a wide head. They are called "fungi" or "umbrellas".To calculate the required number of fasteners, multiply the number of whole sheets of insulation by 5. Since the plates are attached with 5 dowels each.

First of all, just as in the previous version, the start profile is installed.
Next, you need to fix the first sheet of foam. It is placed in the starting profile and, using a perforator or an electric drill, make holes with a depth corresponding to the length of the dowel plus 1-3 mm. In order not to overdo it on the drill, you can set a stop or mark with a marker.
First, the dowel is installed, and then the core is driven into it. The head of the fastener should "sink" in the insulation by 1–2 mm.
Fasteners are installed at the corners of the insulation sheet and one in the center. If the cap is very wide, then one dowel can hold 2-3 slabs.
A gap is left between the elements, which is then sealed with a sealant.
The place where the dowel is located must be wiped with plaster.

Finish the renovation of the facade with the installation of decorative finishes.

Combining option

It is in this way that the foam is attached to the brick wall. It is considered the most reliable. Here they use both an adhesive composition and fasteners. But no difficulties should arise if everything is done strictly according to the instructions.

Setting up a start profile.
Preparation of a cool solution.
Applying glue to a sheet of polystyrene (around the perimeter in a dense layer, in the center - several stripes or blots).
Attaching the sheet to the wall.
Drilling holes in the insulation and the wall.
Dowel and core installation.
Securing all plates.
Grouting the installation sites of fasteners.
Treatment of gaps with a sealant.
Decorative finishing.

These are the main options for attaching Styrofoam to the wall, but professionals recommend using the latter. With this method of fixing, there will be no need to worry that the insulation will fall off, and with it the entire facade decoration.

Preparatory activities

You can insulate the house with foam plastic in 2 ways: with glue or with special dowels
Insulation allows you to save on heating the room. It is possible to fix the foam to the wall after preliminary surface preparation.

The process consists in performing a series of actions to level and strengthen the base. It all boils down to the following:

unnecessary structural elements are dismantled from the working surface;
the falling off areas of the finishing coating are removed to a solid base, after which they are plastered again;
walls are checked for unevenness with a level;
if necessary, the entire surface is leveled, putty;
after drying, the dust formed on the installation plane should be washed off with water (can be wiped off with a damp cloth);
when the moisture evaporates, successively apply: a primer layer, a solution from mold and fungi (with a brush or spray);
before fixing the expanded polystyrene, you should take measurements of the wall (in order to order consumables in the right quantity, in a convenient format).

The preparatory operations also include the selection of tools. To carry out the work, depending on the chosen method of fastening, you will need the following set:

spatulas of different sizes;
construction knife, stapler;
level, tape measure, pencil;
hammer drill (hammer drill);
mixer or nozzle for stirring the glue solution;
sandpaper (grater);
hammer;
containers for glue, primer, plaster mixes.

It is customary to pay great attention to preliminary preparation. Aligned walls without defects speed up further installation work, avoiding possible troubles (for example, panels falling off together with plaster). It is recommended to use 3 cm thick foam inside the rooms, and at least 5 cm outside.