The heating plate will increase the efficiency of the cooking oven

General conditions for masonry

When a heat shield is being erected, you must remember:

1. The optimal laying of this device is considered to be half a brick.
2. The main temperature of exhaust gases from the furnace should not be lower than 110-125 ℃.
3. The use of control valves that are installed in the chimney.
4. You can do the styling yourself.
5. Using clay mortar is more sustainable.

For a potbelly stove, this shield is necessary to increase heat transfer, since it is compact and cannot produce sufficient heating of the room. All the heat from these stoves goes outside together with the gases. This is due to the high temperature, which can exceed over 300 ℃.

For a metal furnace, this device is indispensable, as it increases the efficiency.

Thanks to this setting, you can avoid cold winters and create a cozy and warm atmosphere in your home.

Metal furnaces have a number of advantages over brick ones. They quickly heat up, in a short time they are able to heat a large volume of the room. But they have a significant drawback: they heat only while they are heated. The wood burned out, and the stove cools down instantly.

Therefore, the question often arises before stove-makers: is it possible to connect a metal stove to a brick panel.

Based on the experience of both our own and other masters (many of our familiar stove-makers), we can answer in the affirmative. However, there are two things to keep in mind:

Firstly, not all models of steel and cast iron stoves allow you to do this. Bavaria, La Nordica, Jotul, Tim Sistem, EUROKOM, META furnaces work well in combination with a heat-accumulating shield.

Secondly, many furnace designs provide for the possibility of firing in a slow combustion mode. At the same time, the temperature of the flue gases is very low, the shield does not heat up and condensation forms in it.

Therefore, when heating the shield, the stove should be heated in normal mode, it is FORBIDDEN to heat the stove in slow burning mode with the brick shield connected! As a rule, our brick shields have two modes: summer and winter.

In summer mode, it is easy to melt the stove, and part of the shield does not warm up.

In winter mode, the flue gases are switched over with a valve in a large circle. The shield warms up completely.

The construction of a metal stove type - a brick shield is the best option for country houses, which are visited by their owners only on weekends. It allows you to quickly warm up the frozen house to ensure the accumulation of heat. In this case, the walls of the shield can be laid out in half or a quarter (brick by edge) of a brick. In the latter case, the shield warms up faster, but also cools down faster.

We have extensive experience in assembling steel and cast iron furnaces in combination with a heat shield and have not received any complaints from customers so far. Below you can see samples of work. Some photos are not our work and are given as an example.

1 Gucha Lava stove with a shield. 2 Meta stove with a flap in a tile. 3 Nordica oven with cover.

4 Bavaria with a plate with a shield. 5 Frame plate with shield. 6 Hob with a shield.

5 Bavaria with an oven with a shield. 6 META oven with a cover. 7 Cast iron stove with a shield.

Diy flap masonry

The first four rows of bricks were laid out in solid, using quarters. The verticality of the masonry was controlled by a line stretched along a plumb line in one corner, and the horizontal position was controlled by the level.

Then the flue gas outlet is located. Above it is the usual masonry in a quadrangle, in the center there is a square channel with a half-brick.

I tried to make the seams not thick, about 5 mm - the strength of such masonry is higher.

A valve is located above the channel where the oven will be connected. It has the possibility of thermal expansion due to the gap, which is sealed with basalt fiber.

Then - again the channel for connecting the chimney. And finally, the two final rows are overlapped. In the corners of rectangular inlets for connecting chimneys, inserts are installed on the solution to give the holes an octagonal shape.

I did all the work within two working days. Before that, the day was spent on preparing the foundation.

Reference by topic: Masonry of a Russian stove based on an old one

Advantages of a brick heating shield

Filling the foundation is considered an important part of the construction process. When constructing such devices for a sauna stove with your own hands, you need to carefully consider every detail of the construction process, since any mistake leads to incorrect operation of the entire system in the future.

Key recommendations:

When constructing such devices for a sauna stove with your own hands, you must carefully consider every detail of the construction process, since any mistake leads to incorrect operation of the entire system in the future. Key recommendations:

At the initial stage, the cement foundation of the structure is laid, preferably so that it is not connected to the base of the room. The top level of the foundation is 150 mm below the floor level. After the waterproofing layer of roofing material is laid out, further laying is done in full accordance with the order. The solution for work, which consists of sifted sand and filtered soaked clay, it is important to mix well. The thickness of the seam of the thermal system should not exceed 3 mm, the maximum that is allowed in operation is 5 mm. Each masonry level is measured with a building level and a plumb line. The excess that remains on the surface from the solution is removed, and the inside of the gas passage is wiped with a damp towel.

Varieties and schemes of shields

According to the internal structure, these structures are of 2 types:

• duct: a developed network of gas ducts is arranged in the body of the dashboard, which consists of several vertical channels connected to each other. Before going outside, the gases make a winding path along these passages, intensively giving off heat;
• bell-type: such a shield for a cast-iron stove or stove has one or two chambers with horizontal vaults, where hot gases are retained until they cool down. Only then can they get into the vertical channel and go into the chimney.

Duct-type heaters are structurally simpler, therefore, it is easier to fold them. The hoods are more efficient in terms of heat extraction, but they are much more complicated to perform. It is not recommended for beginners to undertake their construction, the hand of a master is needed here. For self-construction, we present to you drawings and sections of a simple duct-type heating shield with three vertical gas ducts:

In order for our heating and cooking stove to be used in the summer for cooking, the design provides for switching the smoke turns to summer mode. The transition is carried out using three valves built into the gas ducts. In addition, in the upper part of the structure there is an exhaust ventilation shaft for organizing air exchange in the room. To prevent the draft from tipping over in strong winds, a grate with a check valve is installed at the exit from the mine.

The following diagram below shows a metal hob with a bell-type heat shield. As you can see, here the gases, after leaving the furnace, enter the chamber with a vault, from where 2 channels lead.

Since you can only move downward from the chamber, combustion products with a high temperature are retained under the roof until they cool down. Then they become heavier and, according to the law of convection, leave the space of the chamber. In this case, to increase efficiency, the stove with a heating shield is equipped with tubular heaters located inside the gas ducts.

Since it is assumed that most of the interested people have little experience in the furnace business, a simple channel design is presented for self-construction, presented in the first drawing of the previous section. Unlike the master, an ignorant person for the construction will need the order of the heating shield, which we will show in the diagram:

For the construction of a channel shield in this order, the following materials and accessories will be needed:

• solid red ceramic brick - 309 pcs .;
• gate valve 130 x 130 mm - 3 pcs .;
• cleaning door 130 x 140 mm - 3 pcs .;
• exhaust grille with valve 150 x 200 mm;
• clay - 6 buckets;
• sand - 4 buckets;
• roofing material - 2 m2.

It should be noted that the laying of the heating shield is carried out in accordance with all the rules of the art of stove. First, it is necessary to arrange a concrete foundation that is not connected to the base of the building. Its top should be 150 mm below floor level. Having laid a waterproofing layer of roofing material on the foundation, they begin laying in accordance with the order. The masonry mortar must be thoroughly mixed from pre-soaked and filtered clay and sifted sand.

To properly fold a brick shield with your own hands, you need to maintain a seam thickness of 3 mm, the maximum permissible layer is 5 mm. After laying the stones, each row must be checked for compliance with the horizontal and vertical with the help of a building level and a plumb line. Excess mortar protruding from the seams must be removed, and the inner surface of the gas ducts must also be wiped with a damp cloth after laying 3-4 rows.

A self-built shield for a potbelly stove or any other heating and cooking stove should dry out properly. The formed small cracks should be carefully repaired with clay. After that, you can heat the stove, starting with a small firewood and gradually increasing the temperature.

do-it-yourself sauna stove

When choosing a stove for your sauna, first of all, you need to decide what we want to get and what we are ready to spend. The simplest, cheapest and most durable option is a stove welded from metal with cast-iron ingots in a stove, it is pointless to list all the advantages of such a stove, they are all on the face-shovel bath ala "a miner came from the face to wash" in such a bath, no need to finish with clapboard not polished shelves and a tiled floor, it is better to leave at least 1 light bulb for 40 watts in the corner so that you can see where you hung the towel. A completely different option if your bath has a good finish, lighting and you do not go into it to wash, but to relax your body and soul. In this case, the best option would be a beautifully folded brick sauna stove. Such a stove will have a high heat capacity, dry steam, an appearance pleasing to the eye with its naturalness, grace of lines and proportions. The steam of this pei will not give off rust and have a temperature close to 90 degrees.

In addition to the tavo, a minimum of tools and skills are required for laying this stove. All that is required of you is accuracy in work, adherence to the ordinal drawing drawn below and a minimum of bricks with stove fittings and general knowledge about laying stoves that you can easily find on our website.

Materials and tools

Roofing material or polyethylene can be used to waterproof the foundation of the stove and the heating shield.

Shields usually have summer and winter options for work. In the summer version, the passages are blocked with the help of a valve, as a result of which the entire flap does not warm up, and only the plate heats up. During the heating season, it is advisable to open the valve and warm up the entire structure. The masonry is made in strict compliance with the fire safety requirements. The device should be placed on a solid foundation with mandatory waterproofing.

The designs can be varied, and the heat transfer of the shield depends on them. Smoke dampers are installed in the upper part of the shield. The second valve is used for the summer version of the gas flow.In this case, the third should be closed. The third valve will open the winter flow of gases, but the second should be closed at the same time. While the gases pass through the channels, they cool down, giving off heat to the walls, and already in a cooled state leave the pipe. The shields themselves are channel and bell-type - their order is significantly different. This design has a summer and winter course, but the valves are located at the top and bottom of the shield. Its weight is 1210 kg, and dimensions are 89 x 38 x 224 cm. This shield is thick-walled, heat transfer with one firebox is 430 kcal / h, with two - 600 kcal / h. The movement of gases is regulated by means of three smoke dampers. Operating modes:

Heating panel with smoke dampers: 1 - stove; 2 - heating shield; 3, 4, 5 - smoke dampers to regulate the heat flow in summer and winter modes.

1. Winter option - the third valve is closed, and the first and second valves should be open. In this case, flue gases pass through the entire shield, giving off heat to it.
2. Summer option - the first and third valves are open, the second is closed. The gases bypass the chimney of the flap and go directly into the chimney. To ensure ventilation of the room, a special channel is arranged in the nozzle pipe, which is closed with a grate. It has valves that provide 3 modes - partially open, closed and open.

Tools required for work:

• a combined trowel, which serves for leveling, laying, trimming excess mortar;
• hammer-pick - cutting bricks and cutting;
• jointing;
• plumb line;
• level;
• tape measure or folding rule;
• square;
• cord;
• ruler.

Furnace fittings: hobs, smoke dampers, ventilation grill.

Materials and fittings:

• brick - 309 pcs.;
• sand - 3-4 buckets;
• clay - 6 buckets;
• roofing roofing for waterproofing - 1.5 m;
• smoke valves 13x13 - 3 pieces;
• ventilation grill - 15-20 cm;
• cleaning doors - 3 pieces.

When laying the foundation in height, it is not brought to the floor level by 2 rows in height. 1 row of bricks is placed on top of the foundation, and waterproofing is laid on it. Then mark the shape of the oven. Next, a second brick row is laid, the surface of which coincides with the floor level in a clean version. The next step is the ordering of the flap.

Laying the heating shield with your own hands

Tools

In order to lay the brick yourself flap for the oven, you have to use the following tools:

• Trowel - it is applied and equal to the solution for construction work;
• Roulette - used for marking;
• Cord;
• Level - to control the horizontal and vertical when laying;
• Plumb line;
• Drill with impact mechanism;
• Screwdriver;
• Angle grinding machine;
• Diamond disc for cutting;
• Containers for water and mixture;
• Tool for joining seams.

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To fold the brick flap

for the oven, you will need materials:

1. Refractory brick
   - the number is calculated based on the size of the building;
2. Sand, clay for the preparation of masonry mixture.
3. You can choose a dry mix:
4. Chimney valve;
5. Doors for cleaning holes;
6. Roll roofing material to protect against the negative effects of moisture; Grates for ventilation

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Masonry tips:

1. Do not use a cement mortar, it must be exclusively clay-based;
2. Immediately remove the remains of the applied masonry mixture from the inside;
3. The construction of the shield begins with laying the foundation. It does not have to be bound by the base of the structure. It remains to be done to protect it from the negative effects of moisture with the help of roll roofing material. There are many schemes for the independent device of shields for metal furnaces, we want to present one of the types of construction of a heating shield made of bricks for an iron stove.
4. It should be worked out very carefully, because the evenness of the entire riser depends on it. First, put brick dry. It is necessary to measure all dimensions (check the horizontal, vertical masonry, diagonal).
5. After checking all the indicators, we install it on the solution. There is a fire cut to be done. If a wall of wood adjoins the flap - in brick... With a non-flammable partition - half a brick. The ideal joint thickness in the masonry is 7 mm. with a similar seam, the riser will look more beautiful, it is easier to keep it in the future.
6. To limit the draft of smoke and close the smoke hole on top of the shield, install a gate damper (or view).
7. According to the requirements of fire safety rules, the first 2 rows are deaf, in other words, without smoke channels. They lie down with the dressing.

Functions that it performs heating shield made of brick for an iron stove, relevant. It increases the efficiency of the furnace. It is not very difficult to sharpen it on your own. The benefits are understandable - the fuel consumption is reduced, the heating of the room becomes better. If you use decorative cladding, it will serve as an excellent decorative element.

Brick heat shield with fireplace stove // ​​FORUMHOUSE

Second design option

A stove with a heating shield and an independent firebox has a different design and order.

Below is a stove with a shield that has an independent firebox. The shield also has summer and winter smoke circulation systems. You can heat separately either a stove or a heating shield. Dimensions - 140x102x217 cm.Total weight - 2800 kg. With two furnaces, the heat transfer is about 3100 kcal / h.

Required materials and devices:

• ordinary brick - 680 pcs.;
• sand - an average of 20 buckets;
• clay - 22 buckets;
• steel corner (30x30x4 mm) - 4 meters;
• steel strip (50x22 mm) - 55 cm;
• steel sheet (pre-furnace) - 50x70 cm;
• cast iron plates with two burners (52x20 cm) - 6 pcs.;
• grate grates (300x130 mm and 300x262 mm) - 2 pcs.;
• blower doors (14x13 cm) - 2 pcs.;
• furnace doors (205x130 mm and 205x205 mm) - 2 pcs.;
• cleaning doors (14x13 cm) - 2 pcs.;
• smoke dampers (13x24 cm.) - 2 pcs .;
• hot water box (56x34x12 cm);
• door (14x13 cm) or samovar (10 cm in diameter).

Before the start of laying, a solid foundation is laid on the waterproofing layer, which must be previously installed.

Next comes the ordering:

An approximate diagram of the ordering of a furnace with a heating shield and an independent firebox.

1st and 2nd rows - in accordance with the order. 3rd brick row - similar to 1st and 2nd, while leaving the ash pan under the firebox. 4th row - in the process of laying, 4 doors are installed (cleaning and blowing doors) and 2 valves (for summer and winter smoke flows). Doors are clean inside have brick bookmarks. 5th - similar to the fourth

Special attention must be paid here to the dressing of the sutures. 6th - during the masonry, all channels are reduced, the installed doors are blocked, the oven and the hot water box are installed. 7th row - lay the grates for the stove and the fuel shield. Bricks that are located on both sides of the grates must be chipped

In order, this is indicated by dashes. The long channel, which is located on the left, is blocked in order to form 2 short ones. 8th row - install 2 fuel doors, where the smaller one goes for the shield, and the larger one for the stove. The 9th and 10th are laid according to the order. In the 10th, a steel strip is laid over the oven. 11th row - they overlap the doors, coat the top of the oven with a solution of clay about 1 cm thick. To the left of the box, the hot water channel is left unenclosed, and to the right, it is closed with a brick. The 12th brick row completes the masonry. Cast iron flooring is installed and the frame is fixed along the entire perimeter of the slab. Further, the order shows the sequence of laying the fuel shield. 16th row - the brick on the right at the second channel is being cut off. in the 19th row, a valve is installed that closes the pipe. Starting from this row and up to the 25th, five channels are formed from three. 22nd row - a samovar is installed. And further along the masonry of the next rows, one channel is left - this is a pipe. The shield is covered with masonry in 3 rows.31st row - a hewn brick is installed to expand the pipe channel. The 32nd and 33rd rows form a separate channel during the laying process and install a ventilation grill.

When laying the flap, be sure to observe the dressing of the seams, which is indicated in the order, and observe the thickness of the seams - it should be in the range of 3-5 mm. If necessary, uneven bricks are pressed together.

Types of shields

There are two types of shields: duct and bell. They differ from each other in design and installation method.
The duct-type shield implies a complex winding chimney, the design of which does not undergo a change in diameter along its entire length. Instead, partitions are located along their entire length, which can be either vertical or horizontal. It is not difficult to guess about the principle of the system's operation. As the name implies, hot gas passes through the arranged channel and gives off heat to the walls, which in turn heat the air in the room.

A convenient device for the oven is special jumpers that allow you to adjust the flap for supplying heat to the hob without heating the room. This can be done in conventional stoves, but it is completely unsuitable for fireplaces. If you are planning to assemble a fireplace, you must be prepared for the fact that it will not be possible to use it in the summer. If, however, the design is planned to be standard, with all the usual requirements, then it is highly recommended to mount them.

The second option is a cap-type flap. Here, one or two surfaces are connected to each other using channels. The extreme points should be below the upper limit, which allows the heated air to circulate on its own. Based on the laws of physics, heated air moves upward, then, passing through the channel, it cools down and descends, and if it is pushed by another heated gas, it continues to be displaced upward.

Based on this theory, we can conclude that a two-bell heating shield has a positive effect on the room temperature. Therefore, if the installation of the stove is planned in a large room, then it is better to use a two-channel system.

The corner heat shield is an excellent solution for small spaces. The creation of such a shield allows you to save space without compromising the heating properties. If you equip it with a metal firebox, then you can use it as a full-fledged stove for heating the whole house, regardless of the number of storeys.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=jhl-P4_QMzI

findings

It is impossible to say unequivocally that a shield for a metal furnace is necessary. In my opinion, it depends on the type of the furnace itself and the mode of the furnace. So, bath stoves are heated in a more intensive mode than heating ones. The gas temperature is high at the exit from the furnace. Having passed a short single chimney, flue gases rush into a sandwich that is not designed for such a temperature. Here the flap would help to take away excess heat. For myself, I definitely decided - I will make a shield for the sauna stove.

There are heating furnaces with low efficiency, which also have high-temperature flue gases at the outlet - in this case, the shield will help to utilize excess heat.

Whether a shield is needed for expensive modern stoves is difficult to answer unequivocally. For example, my Jetul is the youngest model in a large family of ovens from this company. And there are devices with very high efficiency and precise combustion control, equipped with various technical innovations. They will most likely do without a shield.

It is unlikely that it will be possible to accurately determine or theoretically calculate the amount of accumulated heat. From experience I can say that at the fourth or fifth hour of the furnace, the part of the flap where the chimney passes heats up to about 40-50 ° C. But to warm the room all night long, this heat is not enough.

As a result, I came to the conclusion that the most effective and most affordable way of heating a country house for a "periodic" summer resident is a combined one, using a stove and convectors. With good house insulation, heating costs are small and comparable to contributions to SNT.As for the heat shield, if you come for one or two days, then the effect of it will be small. It can be more noticeable when you are visiting for a few days in winter. With a two-time firebox, temperature fluctuations in the room are reduced.

Varanti masonry especially

At the connection with this, the warmth of the kitchen stoves is very low, the stink of the stoves is not too low, the smell does not go out of place in the common world. The first entry into the situation will be a scorch shield.

The scorching flap pushes the heat of the stove in two times, allowing you to save money on the resources for scorching.

It will be built with more heat, increase the heat capacity of the furnace 2 times and bring the KKD from 30-45% to 50-65%. With a whole lot of vitrati for the whole, accessories and an hour are robust, the way is even more popular and docile. The shield is a trick for speeding up traffic in the middle of the country.

The masonry of the flap can be installed in the pivceglin and in the quarter of the tsegli. The best option would be the first option, the stench of stench will soothe the heat better, and the more trivial program will be better. Until then, such a flap was larger in terms of fire safety. Subtle - to be warmed up more quickly, but it can be achieved more quickly, such constructions are recommended to be seized with a metal casing, so that you should follow the rules of fire safety.

Masonry options and features

Due to the fact that the total heat capacity of kitchen brick stoves or cast-iron stoves is very low, they are not able to heat the room around the clock in full. And an excellent way out in this situation will be a heating shield.

The heating plate doubles the heat capacity of a brick oven, thus saving on heating resources.

It is erected completely brick, increases the heat capacity of the furnace by 2 times and brings the efficiency from 30-45% to 50-65%. At the same time, the costs of bricks, fittings and work time are fully justified, therefore this method is very popular and expedient. The shield is a brick wall with smoke flows inside it.

The flap can be laid in half a brick and in a quarter brick. The first option would be optimal, since they retain heat longer, but at the same time require a longer heating. In addition, such a shield is more preferable in terms of fire safety. Thin-walled - it warms up faster, but it also cools faster, such structures are recommended to be fenced with a metal casing in order to comply with fire safety rules.

What it is

So, what is the hero of our article?

Let's start from afar. Steel and cast iron stoves and stoves for cooking have an important advantage - compactness. A product - whether handmade or purchased - won't take up much space in your home.

However, the small dimensions of the stove or stove have a downside. Small surface of heat exchange with air.

In addition, furnace gases have a very high temperature: from 300 degrees and above. This is undesirable from the point of view of fire safety: one has to seriously be puzzled by the isolation of the chimney from combustible materials. In addition, the efficiency of the furnace is inversely proportional to the temperature of the combustion products leaving the house.

In fact, most of the heat from the combustion of firewood is spent by cooking stoves on heating the street.

There are two obvious solutions to these problems.

1. Use the heat of combustion of the fuel to heat the heat exchanger... To distribute heat around the house, in this case, a water heating system with a circulation pump or natural circulation is used. The obvious vulnerability of the structure is the coolant: when the temperature in the room drops below zero, the water will freeze and break pipes and heating devices.

This is how wood-fired boilers work. But they are intended for houses with permanent residence of the owners: if the water in the circuit freezes, the batteries and pipes will have to be changed.

1. Alternative - a stove or a hob with a heating shield... Furnace gases pass through a winding chimney inside a thick brick wall before leaving the room.Brick is sufficiently heat-conducting and, more importantly, has a high heat capacity. Having heated up during cooking or kindling a potbelly stove, it will give off heat to the room for several hours. Thus, we get a functional analogue of a brick oven. But a much simpler design and much less cost.

A heating and cooking stove with a shield can have an effective thermal power of 7-14 kilowatts (see the orders of heating and cooking stoves). After the firewood burns out, the heated shield will give at least a kilowatt of heat into the room for a long time. To warm up a room from scratch, of course, this is not enough, but in order not to let it cool down quickly - quite.

Laying the main series

poryadovkoy:

The approximate scheme poryadovkoy (brick masonry) in the regeneration of the heating panel.

1. 1st row spread from a brick completely.
2. 2 nd and 3 rd - based poryadovkoy.
3. 4th brick row - left window for further connection to the shield and set 2 cleaning.
4. 5th - similar to the fourth row, but should pay attention to the dressing seams.
5. 6th - during the laying channel 2 is left.
6. 7th row and all the odd rows, 25th inclusive - in accordance with the form and poryadovkoy 3 channels.
7. 8th row and all even rows, 26th inclusive - per poryadovkoy.
8. 10, 11, 17, 23, 24-th rows - similar to the previous one, but to improve the reliability ligation sutures operate differently clutch.
9. 18th - the same 10-th and 24-th series. The channel put the latch on the right side.
10. 21st, 22nd - lay with the installation samovarnika.
11. 27th brick row - combined 2 Left channel 1 channel. Overlain samovarnik.
12. 28th row - mounted valve.
13. 29th - placed under the poryadovkoy. At the same time pay attention to the dressing.
14. 30th row - right put the latch on the left channel overlap.
15. 31 th and 32 th rows - you need to pay attention to the dressing seams. Overhang is placed in 3 rows, that is fully compliant with fire safety. All of this can be seen from poryadovki-.
16. 33rd, 34th and 35th ranks respectively put poryadovkoy.
17. 36th row - always in the process of laying leave it and smoke ventilation channels.

General purpose of the heating plate

Before talking about how the heating shield should be laid, it should be described in more detail where this element is used.

As you know, one of the main advantages of standard hobs and stoves made of steel and cast iron lies in their small and convenient dimensions (in more detail: "Do-it-yourself stove stove - manufacturing options"). However, there is also a negative side to this: the working surface is very small, which is rather inconvenient.

Moreover, it is also important to remember the operating temperature of these devices, which is usually very high (at least 300 ° C). Due to the large value of this parameter, there is a serious risk of fire, therefore, the need for thorough insulation of the chimney pipe is extremely urgent

And if this procedure is carried out incorrectly, then the heat will go away in large volumes, which, of course, will affect the efficiency of the equipment.

In order to solve the problem of heat loss, you can use one of the two most effective methods:

This is due to the fact that the thermal conductivity of the brick is high, therefore, when the room is heated, heating will be guaranteed for a considerable time.

The working power of such a device varies from 7 to 14 kW. After the solid fuel burns out, the heat in the room will remain for a long time (its volume will be about one kW).

Advantages of a stove with a heating shield

A heating and cooking stove, additionally equipped with a shield, which is made of bricks with smooth walls without chips, in compliance with all technical standards, can completely replace a traditional stove.

Compared to a conventional brick oven, a cast iron plate with a heat shield has the following advantages

:

• It is able to heat up the room well in a short period of time.
• Allows you to keep warm in the house for a long time even after the stove has died out.
• It is a hob.

Materials (edit)

In the process, you will need a trowel.
It is not only the correctness of the work performed that affects the result. The quality of the device also depends on the correctly selected inventory and working materials. The inner and outer walls of the chimney are built of even bricks, devoid of chips. It is recommended to spend effort on high-quality grouting of all seams and joints of the device. Used in the work for the construction of shields are ordinary bricks, but the material should not be hollow. The seams are covered with a mass of clay, the cement mixture is not suitable. The list of required equipment is presented in the table:
Consumables

Materali nstrumenti

For hydro-insulating the foundation of the stove and the opalescent shield, it is possible to vikoristovuvati ruberoid or polyethylene.

Shields wake up in summer and winter options for robots. When the summer option is over-crooked, go for an additional blow-by, for which the entire flap does not warm up, if only the hot plate is hot. In the scorching season, docritically check the airflow and program the entire structure. Viroblyayut masonry, suvoro dotrimuyuchis vimog pozhezhnoy bezpek. Razmіschuvati pristіy slіd on mіtsnomu baseі z obov'yazkovoj hydroizolyatsіyu.

The constructions can be useful, because of them and to lay down the heat output of the shield. Dims are installed at the upper part of the shield. Another suction to serve for the lithium version of the gas. At the same time, a third is guilty butti is closed The third run is on the way of wintering gas, but to a friend at a time, close. At that hour, if the gas passes through the canals, the stench reaches, the warmth of the walls is brought out, and the chimneys go through the chimney into the cold mill. The shields themselves are channeled and Kolpakov's - the ordering is meaningful. Tsya construction is a great time and winter, ale the blowing of the rosette in the mountains and at the bottom of the dashboard. Yogo weight - 1210 kg, and dimensions - 89 x 38 x 224 cm. Shield of the whole load, heat output with one top - 430 kcal / h, with two - 600 kcal / h. Robot modes:

Opaluval flap with dim blowing: 1 - plate-2 - dim flap - 3, 4, 5 - dim flap for regulating the heat flow in summer and winter modes.

1. Winter option - the third run is closed, and the blame is due to the fault of the first and the friend. With a lot of dimovi, gases pass through the entire dashboard, giving it warmth.
2. Lіtnіy option - persuasion first and third suction, another close. Gazi pass the dimple of the flap and go into the pipe without going into the middle. To ensure the ventilation of the installation, a special channel is inserted in the top-mounted pipe, which is closed with burrs. There are no valves, which will provide 3 modes - partial pressure, close and open.

Tools Needed for Robots:

• combinovana trowel, which serves for shaping, stacking, increasing oversize;
• hammer-Kirochka - to the hews of the tsegli and the felling;
• roshivannya;
• grabbed;
• rіven;
• tape measure or folding meter;
• kutnik;
• cord;
• line.

Food accessories: cooking plates, dims, ventilation grilles.

Materials and accessories:

• tsegla - 309 pcs.;
• pisok - 3-4 buckets;
• clay - 6 buckets;
• only for securing hydroisolation - 1.5 m;
• suction dimov 13x13 - 3 pieces;
• ventilation grilles - 15-20 cm;
• clean doors - 3 pieces.

With the foundation of the foundation along the height, do not bring the pidlogi to the level for 2 rows along the height. Lay 1 row of tsegli on top of the foundation, and lay hydro-insulation on the new one. Let's change the oven figurine. Then lay another row, the surface of which is to be taken from the pidlogi in a pure version. Let's step by step and order the flap.

Lightweight design

What does it look like

The lightweight heating shield is assembled in a metal frame, lined with either metal sheets or asbophane. In both cases, the sheets for cladding are cut in advance according to templates prepared in accordance with the dimensions of the walls of the stove and taking into account all the relying holes.

Masonry features

1. The wooden floor, on which it is planned to install the shield, is preliminarily prepared - two layers of felt must be laid over the construction area, which must first be impregnated with clay mortar (as an option, asbestos can be used for such a base, upholstered with sheet steel on top).
2. The frame of the shield on a welded frame made of a steel corner is installed strictly vertically, with a solid support on the base with four legs.
3. The frame is verified, after which the bottom row of cladding sheets is laid.
4. The first row of bricks is laid flat on a prepared base.
5. After the floor is ready, the masonry should be brought up to the level of the first row of cladding.
6. As soon as the first row is laid out, install the frame cladding for the second row and continue laying.

Dimensions to be guided by:

• Length - 730 mm.
• Width - 340 mm.
• Height - 1930 mm.
• Weight - 650 kg.
• The level of the first row of cladding is 625 mm.
• The height of the frame legs is 65 mm.
• Dimensions of a welded frame made of a steel corner - 30x30x5 mm.

General purpose

Before starting the construction of a shield for a stove, understand its need and technology for its implementation. Hobs and stoves made of cast iron have a huge advantage due to their compact size. However, this negatively affects the operational points. If you plan to use it as a hob for a large number of people, then it will take a lot of time and effort to cook. Therefore, stoves of this kind are used in temporary buildings or summer cottages.

Not every unit is able to withstand such a voltage, the device may catch fire. Therefore, insulate the chimney pipe as carefully as possible. At the same time, it is necessary to correctly calculate its parameters, since a huge amount of heat goes into large pipes along with smoke. This will not only affect the quality of work, but also the service life.

There are two effective methods for solving the problem of heat loss:

1. The direction of heat energy, which is obtained as a result of fuel combustion, towards the heating of the element responsible for heat exchange. The familiar water fuel system can serve as an example. In it, the coolant can circulate both with the help of a pump and in a natural way.
2. Equipping the cooker with a heating shield. Thus, you get a system where the combustion products passing through the chimney built into the wall will minimize heat loss.

The disadvantage of the first option is the instability of the state of the liquid in the pipes. So if you admit

freezing of water, the pipes can burst or depressurize. To avoid this situation, it is better to use the second method.

The brick-built system guarantees a low heat loss of the furnace, and a high heat capacity ensures long cooling. The heating plate is able to fully replace the usual, traditional stove. Plus, you get more heat with less physical and financial costs.

For what devices is the shield used

The two most common situations are:

• Purchase of a metal stove, which is also a fireplace.
• Using a brick hob.

Also, a brick shield is in demand among residents of country houses in which Swedish Zhirnov ovens are installed. Outwardly, they resemble a fireplace, but structurally they consist of a firebox and a hob: most of the heat goes to heating, a small part to cooking.

Feringer ovens are also usually completed with a brick wall, which increases their productivity.

If a heating plate for a metal stove or brick stove is not used, then the heat obtained from the combustion of the fuel literally flies out into the chimney. And in the case of its presence, heat is retained, which allows you to heat the room.

Stove with a shield for space heating

The heat shield, which looks like a thick brick wall, can be compared to a gas-air heat exchanger, which is attached to any furnace in order to increase its efficiency. Gas flows under the influence of the chimney draft move along vertical and horizontal channels inside the wall.

The principle of operation of this device is based on taking heat from flue gases. As a result, the brick-built structure heats up by itself, and then heats the air in the room.Due to the heat capacity of the material, the wall cools down for a long time and continues to give off heat after the fuel burns out.

As a rule, the shield is not equipped with its own combustion chamber, playing the role of only an additional element. But sometimes the design provides for the presence of a firebox.

Operating principle

Most often, Zhirnov stoves and stoves, which are compact heating units of the "Swede" type, are used in Russian country houses. Such a furnace is easy to set up, heats up quickly and does not require special care during operation. It is ideal for small summer cottages. Its disadvantage is the inability to switch to summer mode.

The most famous are several types of ordering of such a furnace, but, despite the distinctive nuances, they are united by the following characteristics: the power of the furnace reaches 3.5 kW; there are 4 hoods in the cooking chamber and the chimney pipe does not exceed the dimensions of 270 × 140 mm.

The beauty shield can be finished with plaster, tiles, or left brick.

The meaning of the heating flaps

Due to their compact size and excellent functionality, Swedish stoves Zhirnov and potbelly stoves are very popular. They have only one significant drawback: a small work surface, which does not allow to fully warm up the room.

In addition, the ovens have a high operating temperature, which can lead to fire.

To prevent this from happening, it is important to properly equip an insulated chimney. Sometimes the minimum error during its construction is enough for the heat to go into the pipe in huge volumes, without having time to heat the room. How can this problem be solved?

How can this problem be solved?

There are two solution options: either mount a water heating system with natural or forced circulation of the coolant, which requires constant monitoring, or build a stove with a heating shield. It is he who is able to almost double the heat capacity of the stove, which will regularly save on raw materials. A decrease in heat loss in this case is due to the passage of combustion products through a chimney made of bricks with high thermal conductivity.

Varieties and schemes of shields

According to the internal structure, these structures are of 2 types:

• duct: a developed network of gas ducts is arranged in the body of the dashboard, which consists of several vertical channels connected to each other. Before going outside, the gases make a winding path along these passages, intensively giving off heat;
• bell-type: such a shield for a cast-iron stove or stove has one or two chambers with horizontal vaults, where hot gases are retained until they cool down. Only then can they get into the vertical channel and go into the chimney.

Duct-type heaters are structurally simpler, therefore, it is easier to fold them. The hoods are more efficient in terms of heat extraction, but they are much more complicated to perform. It is not recommended for beginners to undertake their construction, the hand of a master is needed here. For self-construction, we present to you drawings and sections of a simple duct-type heating shield with three vertical gas ducts:

In order for our heating and cooking stove to be used in the summer for cooking, the design provides for switching the smoke turns to summer mode. The transition is carried out using three valves built into the gas ducts. In addition, in the upper part of the structure there is an exhaust ventilation shaft for organizing air exchange in the room. To prevent the draft from tipping over in strong winds, a grate with a check valve is installed at the exit from the mine.

The following diagram below shows a metal hob with a bell-type heat shield. As you can see, here the gases, after leaving the furnace, enter the chamber with a vault, from where 2 channels lead.

Since you can only move downward from the chamber, combustion products with a high temperature are retained under the roof until they cool down. Then they become heavier and, according to the law of convection, leave the space of the chamber. In this case, to increase efficiency, the stove with a heating shield is equipped with tubular heaters located inside the gas ducts.

Classification

Typically, the flap is powered by hot gases emitted from the oven hob. But in some cases, an individual firebox can be built into it.

The result is a structure in which the heat turnover does not depend on the stove in any way.

By wall thickness

Shields are of the following types:

• with thick walls (laid in half a brick);
• with thin walls (laid in ¼ part of the brick).

The thick-walled option is beneficial in terms of low flammability and in the event that a long-term operation of the slab is expected.

The second option requires a clearer observance of fire safety rules, since the structure heats up not partially, but completely. In addition, these shields are laid on a waterproofed foundation. And if they decide to decorate with tiles, then this must be done during the construction process. Such furnaces must be equipped with a metal shell - a casing.

The heating plate must be adjusted differently for operation in summer and winter. This allows in the heat to use only the hob of the stove without heating the walls, and in winter to achieve the maximum possible heating. The principle of operation looks like this: in the summer version, the smoke passages are blocked by means of a valve, as a result of which only the stove heats up, and in the winter the valve is pushed back, which gives an impetus to heating the entire surface of the shield.

By design

Also, shields, depending on the design and installation features, can be:

1. Bell type. This unit consists of 2 vertical brick surfaces connected by channels. Getting inside a special hood, the heated air is retained there and effectively heats the room.
2. Channel type. It involves the operation of a winding chimney with a metal pipe of the same diameter. In this case, jumpers must be installed, which do not allow the entire surface to heat up in the summer.

Basically, the shields have a straight configuration, but sometimes they can also be angular.

Channel type flap device

In this case, a winding type chimney is always used, it is placed horizontally or vertically, depending on the design of the furnace. It is imperative to install jumpers that do not allow the entire surface to heat up in summer. The device is quite simple, therefore, shields of this type are often built with their own hands.

It should be noted that both types of structures must be adjusted differently in winter and summer. This is necessary so that in the hot season it is possible to use the stove without heating the walls (in stoves with a duct-type heating shield, it is necessary to shut off the pipes where air circulation takes place with the aforementioned valves), and in winter to use all the possibilities of the stove with a heat accumulating shield, and so to achieve the highest possible heating.

Stages of work

Before starting work, you need to purchase a pick, plumb lines, a ruler, a level, a tape measure and a square, a cord, a hammer and a combined trowel, which serves to remove excess mortar.

Of the material for the construction of a standard heating shield and fittings, you will need refractory bricks (about 310 pcs.), About 6 buckets of clay and about 4 buckets of sand, 1.5 meters of waterproofing roofing, 3 special cleaning doors, a 20-cm grate for ventilation and 3 pieces of valves (smoke) measuring 13 × 13 cm.

As mentioned above, the shields are erected on the foundation. Therefore, the process begins with the arrangement and waterproofing of the base.

Foundation construction

The mortar in the foundation is leveled with a level, without reaching about 10 cm to the floor. A brick is placed on the dried layer, the base of the structure is treated with a waterproofing material, the outline of the unit is outlined. Then a second layer of brick is laid, finally comparing it to the floor level.

The basic algorithm for laying the foundation is the same for ordering a heating shield of any configuration.

Masonry panel without a stand-alone firebox

1 row - fully lined with bricks. The 2nd and 3rd rows are laid following the order. At the level of the 4th row, 2 cleanings are placed and a window is left among the brick for further connection with the shield. On the 5th row, the same work is carried out, but attention is also paid to dressing the seams of the furnace. The 6th row is laid, not forgetting to leave 2 channels.

• Starting from the 7th, including all the remaining odd rows (up to the 25th), lay out the bricks in order, leaving 3 channels.
• Starting from the 8th and including all even-numbered rows, they act strictly according to the scheme-order.
• At the level of 10, 11, 17, 23 and 24 rows, a different masonry is used, which provides a stronger bunch of seams.
• In the 10th, 18th and 24th rows, do not forget to put the valve on the right.

• At the level of the 21st and 22nd layers, a samovar is installed, which will be blocked on the 27th row, combining 2 left channels into one common one.
• A reliable valve is placed on the 28th layer, and the 29th is laid out, according to the order, not forgetting about the dressing.
• On the 30th row, the channel on the left is overlapped, and the valve is reinstalled.
• The 31st and 32nd rows should provide the ligation of the seams and the overlap with a thickness of 3 rows.
• Levels 33, 34 and 35 of layers are laid on the basis of the order, and on the final - 36th row, it is imperative that they take care of leaving the ducts (ventilation with smoke).