How to turn on the Ariston boiler: installation and connection to the network

How to connect a water heater Ariston

Water heater connection diagram:
The connection of the water heater to the water supply pipe is carried out through the lower branch pipe, and a hose is connected to the outlet branch pipe for water outlet. Safety valves are installed at the inlet and outlet, they are open if the water heater is turned on, and closed if the device is turned off.

After connecting to the water supply, the tank of the device is filled with cold water. The cold water tap must always be open. The tap on the hot water outlet opens, when water flows through it, it is closed.

Boiler wiring diagram

The power connection to the water heating apparatus begins with the isolation of the cable, which is carried out from the switchboard to the installation site of the boiler. The cable must be a three-core copper cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm. The switchboard is equipped with an RCD device without fail, to protect people from electric shock, in the event of a leakage to the apparatus case.

The water heater is connected to an electric current through a moisture-resistant three-pole outlet, since it must be grounded. This type of connection is only suitable for low power devices. You can connect the water heater to the electrical network yourself, but it is better to entrust this to specialists.

For high-power devices, a special distribution board is allocated, the cable is supplied to the boiler without an outlet. The switchboard is installed in rooms with low humidity. The device is switched on and off by a circuit breaker. The current strength for which the machine is designed is 16 A.

How to correctly install and connect the Ariston water heater for 15, 30 and 50 liters

2017-01-25 Evgeny Fomenko

Consider the three main stages of how to properly connect the Ariston water heater with your own hands. The first step is site selection and installation. Usually the boiler is placed in the bathroom or in the toilet above the toilet.

It should be borne in mind that an apparatus for 50 liters or more takes up a large volume of the room. The closer the device is to the watershed points, the less heat loss will be.

Connection to the water supply system

Do-it-yourself storage water heater installation step-by-step guide to technical standards

Hoses and other elements of the connections used to connect to the water supply must withstand a temperature of at least 80 ° C and design pressure.

Table for determining the volume of the water heater.

Avoid directly joining two different metals, such as steel (in water pipes) and copper. Use a dielectric adapter.

Connect the water supply to the boiler through shut-off valves and then through flexible wiring. The cold water inlet is marked with a blue mark. A valve must be mounted on it to relieve excess pressure in the system.

In front of the shut-off valves, you can also install a tee tap with a drain tap attached to it. When carrying out repairs or maintenance, this will make it possible to quickly drain the water from the boiler. Seal the threaded joints with tow or FUM tape. Connect a flexible hose that directs heated water to the outlet. After connecting, open the water and check the system for leaks, then connect to the power supply.

Connect the power supply wires of the Ariston water heater to the screw terminals of the thermostat.
When connecting, observe the phases - L, A or P1 - phase wire, N, B or P2 - zero.
Connect the ground wire to the clamp on the heater body.
Connect the terminals of the test lamp to the contacts.
Press the thermostat button.
Close the cover.
Before plugging in, check that the boiler is filled with water.

The electrical wire must be hidden in a corrugation made of non-combustible material or in a wall. The installation of the boiler provides for grounding, which cannot be done on metal objects or pipes: for example, water supply, sewerage, etc.

Useful Tips

Diy water heater connection

Be sure to consider the advice of professionals:

Determine in advance the number of places to which water will be dispensed from the boiler.
Before starting work, purchase all the missing materials so that in the process you do not have to rush to the store for individual parts.
Be sure to follow the instructions for your model.
All water connections must be carefully sealed.
If it is not possible to install a protective drain into the drain, place a protective pallet under the device.
If you do not provide for the supply of tap water, you can supply the storage heater from a separate container. It is fixed at a height of about 5 meters from the top of the device.
Do not forget about preventive procedures - be sure to change the magnesium anode at least once a year.
If you are leaving for a long time, drain the water from the heater by first disconnecting it from the mains.
Until the tank is completely filled with water, you cannot plug it in and set the heating mode.
Do not operate the appliance while it is connected to electricity.
Use only parts that are compatible with your model and recommended by the manufacturer.

Let's consider the main advantages and disadvantages of storage water heaters.

Electricity connection

The scheme is also thought out in detail here. To connect less powerful models, you can use moisture-resistant sockets, powerful devices are connected with a separate cable, which is output to the machine.

It is important to use three-core copper wires with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm. In addition, for safety reasons, an RCD is installed on the cable to protect users from breakdowns. The protective plastic cover is removed from the bottom of the water heater and the wire is connected in accordance with the marking on the device.

Further, the cable is led out in plastic boxes to the electrical panel and placed on the machine with the corresponding indicator of the current strength. At the very end, the operability of the connected Ariston boiler is checked. The taps are opened and the electricity is turned on.

We offer you to watch a video about installing a water heater:

Sequencing

DIY septic tank installation: step by step instructions

It is worth mentioning right away that the startup sequence given below is correct for both flow and storage heaters. A couple of nuances - in the case of the first type, you do not have to wait for the filling of the tank with water, and close the tap in the 2nd paragraph.

You should start by turning off the hot water supply, which comes from the city supply system. If you skip this step, the water heated by the boiler will go into the common riser, regardless of the check valve.
We open the tap with hot water. We are waiting for the remaining liquid in them to drain from the pipes. We close the tap.
Two pipes go to the bottom of the boiler. One, marked with a blue ring, is underwater, the other, with a red marker, serves to supply hot water to the pipes.
We open the valve on the underwater pipe. Water begins to flow into the storage device of the device.
Next, we unscrew the second valve on the boiler. Allowing some water to go out into the pipes.
Open hot water on the mixer. We are waiting for air to leave the system and an even stream of water flows. We shut off the water.
We connect the heater to the electrical network and set the desired temperature regime.

In a home where there is no hot water supply, the first step must be skipped.Subsequent switching on of the heater will follow the same scheme. The only difference is in the 6th paragraph. Then, not air, but stagnant water will begin to come out of the heater tank.

Heating mode selection

We set the heating mode. The main thing in this matter is to set the water temperature that is comfortable for the user. However, here are a few tips, the implementation of which will significantly extend the life of the device. Thus, save on future repairs.

Set the temperature to 30-40 degrees as seldom as possible. Under these conditions, bacteria will grow rapidly inside the storage tank. This will create an unpleasant moldy smell. The walls will be covered with fungus, which is difficult to remove.
Optimal operating mode, 55-60 degrees. In this temperature range, less scale will form on the heating element. Reduces the risk of mold. It is comfortable for human skin.
Once a week, the boiler must be set to 90 degrees. Wait a couple of hours, and return to the previous regime. This is done to completely destroy bacteria in the storage tank.
Some devices have an economical mode of operation. The heater in this case does not consume less electricity. The settings will be set as in point 2 and we are talking about reducing the risk of breakage.
In the case of a flow-through type heater, the temperature is also controlled by water pressure.

Storage heater working principle

Any model of the Ariston storage heater is completed with an instruction manual for the device.

Storage water heater diagram.

The manual contains a description of the device, its equipment and a detailed description of the operation, a diagram of connecting the device to the water supply and an electrical diagram of the device, rules for the safe operation of a water heater or Ariston boiler.

Apparatuses used to heat water consist of such parts.

The main elements of the Ariston water heater:

Metal or plastic, covered with white enamel, housing, which holds the inner tank, made of metal. It is covered with a layer of glass porcelain or enamel, or the tank is made of stainless steel.
The water heater has an insulating layer to retain heat and avoid a rapid drop in the temperature of the heated water. It is located between the surface of the body and the inner tank.
There are two pipes in the tank: hot water is taken through one, cold water is supplied through the second, since hot water is always at the top of the tank, then the pipe for its intake is longer than for supplying cold water.
An anode is located inside the tank to protect the heating element from scale. Heating is performed by an element, which includes a heating element and a thermostat.
The thermostat is designed to disconnect the water heater from the electric current when the water is heated to a predetermined temperature. Outside on the body there is a heating temperature regulator, it can be mechanical or electronic. A protective decorative cover is installed below.
The device works according to this principle: water from the water supply system is supplied under pressure inside and sinks to the bottom of the tank, where it is heated with the help of a heating element. Heated water rises upwards, during the movement it mixes with cold water. When the set heating temperature is reached, the thermostat turns off the heating element. When the water temperature drops below the set one, the thermostat is triggered and the heating element automatically turns on.
An indicator is displayed on the protective cover of the case, allowing you to monitor the operation of the device. When the indicator light is on, it signals that the water is heating.
A check valve is installed on the water supply pipe near the entrance to the tank, it prevents water from flowing back.

The main types of breakdowns, recommendations for repair

The main problems that can be encountered when operating a water heater:

The water stops heating

The problem may lie in the wear of the water heating element due to the hardness of the water. Our experts recommend supplementing the water heater system with a coarse filter, which will purify the water before entering the system;

Tank leaks

This defect occurs due to the use of defective materials in the manufacture of the tank. Insufficient protection leads to the spread of rust, and then to leakage.

Leaks in connections

Water can also seep from fittings, joints, taps. The professional approach of our service workers will help to quickly determine the location of the leak, specialists will be able to repair the Ariston boiler in a short time;

Overheating of boiler parts.

Additional elements such as walls, housings, boiler plugs are heated. In case of such a malfunction, it is better to immediately stop using water heating equipment and trust the professionals.

Our company carries out any repair of Ariston water heaters in Moscow and the region. Being an authorized service center and having carried out repairs of varying complexity for more than 15 years, we have an advantage in promptly identifying problems and eliminating them as soon as possible.

Assembly and installation of the water heater at the attachment point

This work is done in reverse order:

a gasket is placed, and the flange is mounted on it;
it is necessary to fix the magnesium electrode and the heating element in the corresponding sockets and press them with staples;
a thermostat is put on the terminals;
raise the tank and carry out its installation - fix it on the wall;
connect pipes or flexible hoses to hot and cold water pipes;
fill the water heater with water and check the operation of all units.

Applied materials and tools:

spanners;
tester;
pliers, screwdriver;
rag and bucket;
new heating elements, gasket and magnesium electrode (if necessary, replacement).

You can disassemble and clean the Ariston water heater yourself without calling professionals. This can be done with minimal financial costs if you carry out preventive and repair work on time.

The order of the wizard on the object

Dismantling and disassembling the plate to access the components;
Carrying out diagnostics until a malfunction is established;
Coordination of repair methods with the client;
Repairs on the same day.

This scheme allows you to quickly carry out work and does not require the transportation of oversized equipment to a stationary workshop.

Ariston is arguably the most popular manufacturer of large household appliances, including household electric stoves. Kitchen appliances from this manufacturer have gained immense prestige, both in the European and domestic markets. Optimal quality makes it difficult to find a better ratio in the market. Yet it is a complex technique, which implies its vulnerability.

Plumbing connection

The drain hole for this type of heater, regardless of model, is usually at the bottom. First, you need to build and install a so-called security group. This is a set of valves and fittings designed to prevent various emergencies that may arise during the operation of the device.

An adapter is installed at the top, which is often called "American". Next, a bronze tee is screwed on. A check valve is attached to its bottom, which prevents water from flowing back into the water supply system. Another tee is attached to the side branch of the tee.

The diagram shows in detail the connection of a storage water heater: hot and cold water risers, water taps (1 and 2); shut-off valves (3 and 4); check valve (5); drain valve (6)

A 6 bar safety valve is attached to it to ensure that the pressure inside the tank can be automatically reduced if it has reached a critical level.

A special compression fitting for the water pipe is attached to the same tee. Through it, at overpressure, part of the water will be discharged from the storage device into the sewage system.

Diagram of the storage water heater safety group. This set of devices prevents dangerous emptying of the device's container and removes excess water if the pressure inside exceeds the norm.

After installing the device, be sure to make sure that the pressure valve opening remains open, otherwise the device will simply not work.

All threaded connections must be sealed and sealed. Experts recommend taking at least four hours to dry the sealant.

The photo clearly shows and signs the elements of the safety group of the storage water heater

When installing the device, it is important to precisely follow the sequence of their connection

... To connect the device to a cold water riser, you can use steel, copper, plastic or metal-plastic pipes

When doing the installation yourself, they are most often used, since it is relatively easy to solder them.

To connect the device to a cold water riser, you can use steel, copper, plastic or metal-plastic pipes. When doing the installation yourself, they are most often used, since it is relatively easy to solder them.

Some people use flexible hoses for these purposes, but this decision does not justify itself. As practice has shown, such elements wear out quickly.

The individual elements of the safety group of the storage water heater are connected by means of a thread. In accordance with the norms, these places should be sealed and sealed with a sealant.

It is clear that the hot and cold water entering the apartment should be shut off before the pipes are cut. A shut-off valve should be installed between the cold water riser and the heater so that, if necessary, the water supply to the device can be turned off. All connections are carefully sealed.

Now you need to bring another pipe that will connect the heater to the hot water supply system in the apartment. In this area, you will need another shut-off valve: between the hot water riser and the heater.

This tap must always be closed so that the heated water from the boiler does not get into the common hot riser of the house. Again, it is necessary to observe the sealing and sealing of all joints.

A shut-off valve for cold water between the heater and the risers must be installed in such a way that, when closed, it does not interfere with the flow of water to other consumers, cutting off only the heater.

And the connection to the hot water supply system must be made so that, if necessary, it is possible to restore the flow of hot water from the common riser to the system in the apartment.

This completes the connection to the water supply system. Some experts recommend performing a preliminary check at this stage: fill the container with water, and then drain it and see if there is a leak. This check should only be done after the sealant is completely dry on all joints.

Types of electric water heaters

The most popular with buyers are two types of devices: storage-type devices, they are also called boilers, and instantaneous water heaters.

Boilers for water: an essential modern attribute in the bathroom

The first ones function as follows: cold water enters a special tank equipped with a heating element.

There it is heated to the required temperature and then fed into the water supply system. There is no storage tank in the flow heater, the water heats up in the process of passing through a special flask in which the heating element is located.

Therefore, the procedure for connecting devices of different types to the water supply system differs significantly.

Boilers are easier to install, they are usually cheaper than flow-through heaters and are less demanding on the quality of the electrical network than flow-through devices.

Therefore, storage units are much more popular. Instantaneous heaters are installed as close as possible to the hot water draw-off point, for example, directly to the tap with water.

The device allows you to get hot water almost instantly, but the heating costs will be quite high.

Common malfunctions of Ariston elplite

Complete shutdown of one or more heating elements (burners, heating elements).

These elements are composed of incandescent spirals that burn out with prolonged use.

Instability of operation (shutdown when heating, spontaneous switching on, error symbols on the display).

If heating is controlled using sensors, then such malfunctions can occur as a result of failure of components of the electronic control unit, such as: relays, conductive tracks, a loop. If the device has mechanical control, then such defects are associated with the failure of the power switches.

In certain cases, it is better to entrust the repair of not cheap equipment to competent specialists who have experience in working with this type and brand of household appliances. Unskilled intervention in the system of a complex device can lead to its complete failure or, at least, to an increase in the cost of repair.

Installation and connection of the boiler to the network

Important!

If the pressure in the system can exceed 6 bar, a special regulator must be installed. It is installed on the cold water supply together with pressure relief valves, ball valve, filter.

Ariston boilers are supplied with safety valves and brackets. Additionally, you need to purchase ball valves (for cold and hot water), as well as a pressure reducer and a filter. With regard to the eclectic system, a connection option is offered for maximum safety. To do this, you need to purchase a 3-wire cable, 16-amp fuse.

It is important to choose the right place where the Ariston boiler will be installed, the connection consists of 3 stages:

Wall mount or floor mount.
Piping and connection to the pipeline.
Electrical wiring connection.

Installing the appliance

Non-capital walls, such as wood, plasterboard or hollow, cannot be used as a support surface. On the wall, 2 patch strips are mounted, for which the boiler mounting brackets are fixed. When calculating the height of the fastening of the strips, the height to which the device must be raised in order to hook it onto the brackets is taken into account.

Boiler piping

The equipment is connected to cold and hot piping systems. The schematic diagram of the cold water supply consists of a number of protective components, depending on the features of the installation, they can be of different materials, and the elements can be distributed in different rooms. The main thing is that the sequence is followed and the equipment is taken into account:

A tee is inserted into the common water supply pipe, from where the connection is supposed to start, and the wiring to the boiler goes from its free flange. It starts with the installation of a ball valve that shuts off the water supply to the heater.
Next, a coarse filter is built in.
If the water pressure in the pipeline is not constant or rises more than 6 bar, install a water pressure regulator in the system.
The rest of the elements begin to be fastened from the junction on the boiler.
A ball valve and a tee with a branch for an emergency drainage hose are connected to the equipment.
Even lower there should be a safety valve, which has 2 functions: to exclude the drainage of water from the tank, if it is turned off in the general water supply system, and when the pressure in the boiler rises, release water.

The final stage is connection to the "hot" circuit: only a ball valve is installed on it.

Wiring

The power range in which the boiler operates is 2.5-3.5 kW, therefore, to prevent overheating of the network, a separate line is allocated (3-core cable 2.5-3 mm). For high-power devices, it is recommended to use a direct connection instead of the usual plug-to-socket contact. Schematically, it looks like this:

Malfunctions and repairs of the Ariston water heater

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Installed and connected a new water heater Ariston 100 liters. I open a hot water tap, and the pressure goes with the air for some time. What is the problem and how to fix it, tell me, please? If there are many dissolved gases in cold water (not necessarily air), then during heating they are released and then collected in the upper part of the boiler, since the gases are lighter than water. And the hot water outlet is just above it, so the air gets there. It is possible to put an air vent between the boiler and the taps. I changed the heating element in the boiler Ariston ABS 80. When disassembling, I did not pay attention to where the thermostat in the form of a spring and a sensor in the form of a cylinder were inserted. There is only one tube on the heating element itself. Do they both need to be installed there? First insert the sensor in the form of a cylinder, then the sensor in the form of a spring. The first is the working thermostat, the second is the emergency thermostat. Insert sensors one after another. The water heater Ariston ABS VLS INOX PW 50 V purchased a little over a year ago is in operation. 4 heating elements have already burned out in a year. There are 2 types - Thermowatt and native without manufacturer's inscriptions on the heating element. In detail: - we use the heater all the year round, 2 people. - about 3000 liters pass through the EVN per month. water. - I set the maximum heating temperature for the night, lower it during the day - to save money at the expense of the night rate. - Installed magnetic transducer Magnetic Water Systems MVS Dy 10 Rts 1/2. 1. Native heating element Thermowatt struck after six months of use - the RCD began to work. The first to break through the central small heating element 1 kW. If you turn it off, leaving a large 1.5 kW, it continued to work. Changed under warranty. Scale has accumulated on the heating element, but not adhering to it, but loose, is calmly washed off. 2. The second heating element Thermowatt worked for a week and also struck the central one (1 kW). Again called the masters - again changed. 3. The third one (without company inscriptions on it) has worked for six months already, the guarantee for the EVN has already come out, again the central heating element has broken through. Disconnected it, the second worked for several more days and also struck. 4. I bought the original heating element (without company inscriptions on it) for 2100 rubles. No packaging. I worked for a week and again the central heating element burned out. Disabled it. The second worked for another two weeks and also burned out. 5. Having 2 heating elements in stock with only one burned out element, I put one of them - the one number 2, which died in a week of use. I was not happy for long - the second element burned out in a few hours. 6. Now I put the last one available with one working element - it is also No. 1 - a native one that came from the manufacturer. What to do? Buy more heating elements? Change the heater? Is it possible to order somewhere to weld another heating element to such a flange? Malfunction of the water heater Ariston 100 liters. Worked for almost 2 years. The last 2 days does not work, knocks out the machine (16 A). What could be the problem? I understand that most likely the heating element. If the RCD knocks out, then, most likely, the problem with the heating elements is opened. We'll have to change. An electric water heater Ariston of 50 liters is in operation, a year ago the heating element and anode were changed, now they began to knock out ouzo on the power cord. I turn it on - it works, heats the water, and after a while I come up - the ouzo is turned off again. What to do? What exactly needs to be repaired or changed in this case? I note right away that there is grounding, the reasons are unlikely for an electrician. In decreasing order of probability: heating element - replacement, condensation or water leakage into the electrical unit and on the wires / contacts, RCD malfunction.I installed the Ariston ABS 50 boiler, did not have time to hang it yet, I read the instructions. I came across one point with something like this: "to drain the water, shut off the cold water supply and open the hot tap", while the instructions contain a wiring diagram where the drain occurs through a branch on the cold water pipe. I don't know what to think, is there really no overflow tube on the hot water outlet in this model, and the intake comes from the bottom of the tank? We read the instructions: 1. Turn off the power supply to the heater. 2. Close the valve for supplying cold water to the hot water heater. 3. Open the hot water tap on the mixer. 4. Open the drain valve on the tee. The ariston abs pro r 80 v water heater is in operation. The instructions say - do not turn on or off the device by inserting or removing the mains plug from the socket. Use a switch for this purpose. Question - does a mechanical thermostat in the extreme position perform this function? Until you click? Or will it break with a click? Has anyone risked hearing a click? It is also said - to disconnect the external power supply to the device, use a 2-pole switch. So there is no switch on the mechanical temperature controller? It is also said that the water heater must be grounded. Connect the wire to the terminal. The question is - if the wiring in the house is made according to the mind and the earth is in the sockets, then still pull the yellow-green wire to the terminal? How are these questions viewed in the event of a warranty case? And most importantly, how to keep it working? Turning off or turning on the device by removing the plug from the socket is written in almost all equipment. There must be an automatic machine in front of the device in accordance with electrical requirements. Everyone pulls it, minus the outlet, over time, the contacts loosen, and it starts to warm up. Unscrewing the thermostat to a minimum, you hear a click of the break contacts, and the EVN is disconnected from the network. You can use it, so there is nothing to worry about. The thermostat has one break contact. And you will open the phase or zero, depending on how you inserted the mains plug. Therefore, a two-pole switch is recommended to completely de-energize the heater. If grounding has already been made in the house and it is present in the sockets, then there is no need to pull additional grounding. For you, the main thing will be connected to water according to the instructions. If a warranty case occurs, the tank leaks, then we look at the correct connection according to the OM and see if maintenance was carried out. Does ariston abs vls evo have a 5 year warranty? Replacing the anode is not strictly tied to one year - should you check the degree of wear once a year and replace if necessary? It can serve for 1-2 years, as stated in the instructions. And with a simple water heating and should not wear out at all? Or if there is water in the tank, but there is no heating, does it wear out anyway? Quite right, once a year you disassemble it, see the condition of the anode, if it remains less than 30%, then it must be replaced. When idle, it is also corroded by water. To say how long it will serve you, after a year of work, you will disassemble it and roughly determine the time of the next maintenance. The water heater Ariston ABS VLS PW 80 is in operation, we have been using it for about 4 years, we did not carry out maintenance, and today they turned on the device, it worked normally up to 47 degrees. He turned off, or rather the ouzo on the wire turned it off. I turned it on, pressed start on the scoreboard, knocked out the apartment's ouzo - did the ten burn out? It did not burn out, but made its way onto the hull. Does everyone have a regular pressure valve buzzing? Which one, if what is better to change? There is a heater Ariston ABS VLS PW 100V I noticed this feature. If you set the heating temperature to 50 degrees, then my electric meter blinks from consumption with a certain frequency, and if you set the temperature to 60 degrees, then the meter starts blinking more actively and, accordingly, more energy consumption - my guess is that the heating element works at a lower temperature for 1kV, and at larger switches to 1.5kV right? The Ariston ABS ECO storage water heater is in operation for 80 liters. with electronic thermostat. In operation for six months. Yesterday, and until now, the indication shows that heating is in progress, but the water is cold. Diagnostics does not start, does not respond to pressing other buttons. It looks like something with brains. Maybe someone had something similar? The indication shows that heating is going on. But in fact, the water barely heats up.Initially, the heating temperature was set to 60 gr. The indicators blink, as it should be when heating up to 60. Attempts to decrease or increase the temperature have failed. The control system does not respond in any way to pressing the + or - buttons. It also does not respond to pressing the diagnostic buttons, rapid heating, protection from bacteria. Only the shutdown button works. First, check the heating element. If the indication on the board is normal, the temperature shows, then it is most likely working. At least, the board is not completely covered, since the procyclist responds to the power button and blinks with LEDs. Perhaps the fault is showing. It makes sense to check for a start the sensors - a thermal sensor, an overheating sensor (if any) and output signals to the device (relay, thyristor, in short, what controls the heating element). The device is powered from a double socket, the second is connected to a heater in the subfield. The heater periodically turned on when it got colder to -25. The water heater was not removed from the outlet. Could this somehow affect him? In general, connecting two powerful consumers to one outlet is never recommended. The sockets must not be loaded in an amount higher than 16a. A 2 kW heater and a 2 kW boiler, when working together, will already overload the outlet. But this hardly affected the operation of the heater, if the contacts are good everywhere and the socket does not spark. What could happen to the water heater Ariston ABS VLS PW 50 after winter storage in the garage? I mounted it as usual at the dacha, supplied water, flowed from the hot tap, plugged it in, immediately without turning on the button, the first LED lit up and blinked at the temperature display at 40 degrees, pressed the "+" button, both LEDs began to blink. I decided to carry out the diagnostics as written in the instructions by starting and holding the "ON / OFF" button, let go of the LEDs continue to blink. I waited, there is no heating, judging by the instructions, the electronic part is faulty. He took off the control device with a scale, the heating element rang. Heating element is normal. The question is whether it is possible to somehow check the electronic unit without connecting the heating element. The printed circuit board is normal, there is no dripping or charring (clean). The indicator on the socket is on. The warranty has expired. Failure of electronic components is not always accompanied by charring and smoke. If you have no experience in checking electronic devices, you will have to replace the board. If there is a multimeter in your hands and forward - check first the power circuit, then the control circuits and the temperature sensor. Use an incandescent light bulb as a replacement for the heating element. In operation Ariston ABS PRO ECO PW 50. Lost instruction. We want to change the ten with our own hands. Does not heat up. How to change with your own hands? Unscrew everything from below (after de-energizing). Take out the ten. Install a new one, open the water and wash the dirt out of the tank. Dry and put in the reverse order. Tell me, the water pressure at the inlet to Ariston is 30 liters normal water heats, but the outlet is very small pressure almost does not go water can, what kind of valve is it? Do you have a non-return (safety) valve on which branch pipe is it installed? Cold or hot water? Should be in cold water. Otherwise, hot water is shut off, and cold water can go back altogether. I will describe the process of filling the Ariston 100-liter water heater, as I did: I opened the tap with hot water on the first floor, went up to the second floor, opened the tap on the supply pipe HV to the water heater, opened the tap on the pipe that goes from it. I waited until the water did not run from the tap from the hot water on the ground floor, closed it, waited until the device was filled with water, controlled it by the meter, only then plugged it into the network, and set the temperature. Central cold water. The water heater is installed on the second floor, but at this time, all consumption points are on the first. The essence of the problem: When you open a tap with hot water, the water flows unevenly, and in pulsations, you can hear that the water comes out with air.If at the same time open the tap with HW and HW to the full, and keep it in this position for a while, then close the tap with HW, then the stream of HW will be noticeably less than it was when the tap was just opened. Please help me with advice on how to get rid of the air. Since there is no whole scheme, it can be assumed that air can also be in the cold water system, that is, loops, long plugged sections in the end, sometimes cold water itself contains a lot of dissolved gases and this can even be seen if the water is opened with a strong jet (on a mixer without aerator), it comes out white like milk. Further in the pipes and heater, this air is separated and accumulates in the upper points of the system. The fact that if you keep the cold water valve open for a while, it affects the water flow through it. This suggests that the system contains air in pure form and in large quantities and forms a parasitic accumulator from which, first, "additional" water, displaced by the air, comes in, and then, when it ends, the flow rate in the tap decreases. This air can be in the house system itself. If we assume that air is initially present in the hot water supply, I will try to make sure of this tonight, then what are the ways to remove air from the system at the entrance to the house? If there is air in the house water in the form of microbubbles, it will be difficult to fight this, a deaerator is needed. But to reduce the symptoms will allow competent wiring of the entire system so that there are no places for the formation of air bags, etc. A mechanical filter with a cartridge of mineral fibers and a small tank with an air vent after it will partially help. In the filter, the bubbles grow larger and then enter the tank, where they float up and out of the air vent. The dimensions of the tank depend on the amount of water flowing through it - the speed of the water in the tank should ensure that bubbles rise. I have been using the 80 liter Ariston boiler for two years, I could not get enough of it. But, recently he began to notice that he gives out less and less hot water. I was looking for the reason not for long - a thermostat at the boiler outlet. He's turned out to be as hot as possible. When you turn the knob to "cold", the pressure increases. When returning to extreme "hot", the result is slightly better than it was, but gradually, the volume of water passing through the thermostat decreases again. I would like to take it apart, but decided to postpone it. Perhaps someone faced such a problem? Advise - disassemble, change. What could have happened to him? At the entrance, by the way, there is a pair of filters and a "softener" (Waterbos). Deposits of hardness salts on the working element are possible. Disassembly and cleaning to help you. Installed a boiler Ariston 50 liters. It worked properly, and then after a few months the pressure of hot water weakened how to fix it? The cold water pressure is very strong and we installed a reducer, and without it the device will hum constantly. The noise in it can only be from heating elements during heating, but this noise has nothing to do with pressure. If the water pressure is high and there is a desire to lower it, then the reducer should be located at the water inlet to the house / apartment after the metering unit. This way, your mixers will have the same pressure on cold and hot water. Are there filters at the cold water inlet before the reducer? The gearbox is most likely clogged with dirt. Diagnosis: disassemble, wash, clean the gearbox. When only cold water is connected, the pressure is normal, I connect the Ariston boiler (the installation height is 2m), the cold water pressure is normal, I turn the tap to hot water - the pressure is weaker, I turn the tap to the middle position, the pressure practically disappears. I took off the boiler, with the middle position of the mixer, the water goes into the hot water pipe through the mixer, the reason for the deterioration of the pressure, as I understand it, is through the mixer. the water presses against the hot water, so there is no pressure.Now the question is how to make it work? And why, when it is disconnected, when the mixer is opened to the middle position, water flows from the hot water supply pipe with a good pressure. That is, cold water passes the mixer and enters the hot water pipe, thereby preventing hot water from entering there from the boiler when it is connected, so should it be? The reason for the decrease in the consumption of hot water at normal cold pressure is that the pipe is deformed somewhere, the gaskets are "crushed" from excessive tightening, possibly foreign objects in the pipe, in short, the pipe section is narrowed. First you need to check the connection of the mixer and the mixer itself for blockages, then understand where, before the device or after, for this, connect a temporary tap to the outlet and check the water flow through the boiler using this tap. A mixer is a piece that, in the middle position, connects both pipes together. Naturally, when there is no back pressure in one of them (the device is disconnected), the water flows in the opposite direction. When everything is connected, this cannot be, since a check valve is installed in front of the boiler this time, and the pressure in the device is the same as in the pipe with cold water, this is two. Check where the water flow is limited (not pressure!) - before, inside or after the boiler. It is easy to check using the temporary tap method - first the water flow from the cold pipe connected to the heater, then from the hot water pipe, then from the hot water pipe near the mixer connection point. The flow rates at all these points should not vary significantly. All this is true only in the case of normal cold water pressure in front of the apparatus not lower than 1 kg / cm2, it is advisable to measure it with a manometer, otherwise the valve can severely restrict the water flow, since there is a spring in it. Fault boiler Ariston ABS 80. It was put into operation in June 2007. Used in the country, not particularly intensively, the water is hard. There was a problem, if earlier he heated the water to a very hot state quickly enough, then the last time, he could not heat the water for more than 3 hours, although it became warm. What could have happened and how to fix it? Clean the heating element and check the magnesium anode. Unscrew the nut securing the bracket, pull out the flange with the heating element. I managed to buy a new electronic thermostat, for one I bought another magnesium anode at the end of the summer season I will try to revise it. The only question about these thermostats is, how reliable is this electronics, based on your repair experience, and can the display board fail (what is the probability)? Depends on the stability of the supply network, mainly. Everything can fail, to reduce the likelihood of this event, the operating conditions prescribed by the manufacturer must be observed - protect against voltage surges and prevent moisture and condensation from getting on the electronic components. Does anyone use ABS PRO ECO PW 50? How long will it run? There are few reviews, but they are scary: either they flow immediately after switching on, then the electronics are on fire. It is relatively “new”, because there are few statistics-reviews. Flow - it may be worth stretching the heating element itself. And practically no one installs an expansion tank, and this model has accelerated heating. Consequently, the pressure can quickly rise to the limit. Malfunction of the water heater Ariston ABS VLS INOX PW 80. Completely switched off. We have a resant, and is successfully fighting power surges. Ariston up to 2 years old is exactly 2 months old. It worked smoothly, even without a hint of a malfunction. And last night, when the water was heating, it turned off at some point. The RCD knocks out on it, so it is impossible to check the error on the display. It turns on for a minute and goes out. In the morning I will find out about self-repair. While it is dull. Who can tell you where to look for the error? In the hot water, there is a leak to the ground - most likely, the heating element is damaged, this happens quite often, especially if the water is hard, and the heater has never been descaled.It is necessary to turn on without an RCD very carefully - dangerous voltage may appear on the case. Ariston ABS VLS EVO water heater malfunction. Has stopped working and gives an error - overheating, malfunction of the electronic board. Tell me if replacing the board will solve the problem, or if any other malfunctions are possible, is it possible to replace the electronic board yourself without contacting the service center (I mean disconnecting the chips and wires, replacing the board and connecting the wires in place) or additional manipulations are needed. As I understand it, there is more than one circuit in the sensor. On the connector there are 4 wires, the first is red and three are gray. Resistance is measured between cr. and 2 cr. and 4 are the same and drops when heated. Between 2 and 4 it is about twice as large and also drops when heated. 3 no cr. neither with 2 nor with 4 shows resistance 1. Is the sensor working and where does the rusty deposit come from? There is a suspicion that condensate gets into the tube where the sensor is immersed because it is on the inlet tank, and the water heater hangs horizontally. There are also traces of rust on the tube. There can be many reasons: both scale and dirt on the heating element, and a problem with the electronics. If the resistance drops during heating, the sensor is working properly. There can be two or three thermistors in the same housing, for the display meter, thermostat and for overheating monitoring. Apparently one wire is common, the first two sensors are the same and alive, and the overheating sensor may be faulty, since it does not ring. Possibly burnt out due to moisture ingress. In any case, the cost of replacing this sensor is incomparable to replacing the electronic board. In operation, a vertical Ariston heater of 50 liters, but after 1.5 years of use, one day it began to flow below in the area of the temperature regulator. I read that many have such a problem. Can someone still tell you what the problem is (from those who nevertheless contacted the service center with such a problem), is there any point in repairing or is it already faulty? And during these one and a half years of use, have you carried out prophylaxis, cleaned the heating element, changed the anode? Ariston's water heaters, although reliable, still need timely maintenance. And it is recommended to clean and / or replace the anode every 1.5 - 2 years. And if the water is not of the best quality, then more often it is possible. Most likely, a leak in the area of the thermostat is a consequence of the fact that the heating element needs to be cleaned. And it is better to do this not in private conditions, but in a service center, this procedure is not complicated and not expensive. Installed water heater Ariston ariston abs pro r 80, stands in the country, water flows through the pumping station, the pumping station pumps water from the well. He constantly gives an error (the tank is not filled with water) something like that. I noticed that water enters it when the pumping station starts pumping water. When the station is filled with water, at this time the heater does not collect water! What could be? There is a pressure sensor at the pumping station, with which you can adjust the pressure in the system. And you need to check the air pressure in the pumping station (in the accumulator), in a bottle with a rubber bulb, there is a pipette, like on a bicycle chamber. Perhaps there is some kind of valve in the column that works at a certain pressure, and the pressure in the system is not enough. Not so long ago I installed an Ariston boiler for 200 liters, until today it worked fine, but now the whole scale is blinking and it is inaudible to heat the water, tried to restart it several times, no result, it turns on a little noise, then flashes again with the whole scale and stops heating. Tell me what to do? I will say a banality, but the heater is not a monolith, but rather complex equipment, you need to monitor it. We do four simple things: we regularly check the safety valve, change the anode in a timely manner, drain the water for a period without operation, and properly descale.

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Gas boilers
Electric boilers
Gas water heaters
Malfunctions and repair of gas water heaters
Water heaters
Boiler error codes
Elimination of malfunctions in boilers
Troubleshooting water heaters
Repair of indirect heating boilers
Elimination of malfunctions in electric convectors

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ELECTROLUX

Malfunction of the water heater Electrolux EWH 100 liters. Can't turn on. when trying to drain the water, only 5-8 liters came out, and the volume was 30 liters. How to fill the tank completely and can it not work because of this? I have low cold water pressure.

BURNER

Boiler malfunction Combustion. The indicator is on, shows the temperature, clicks when turned on, but there is no voltage on the heating elements. Control box defective?

TIMBERK

I purchased and connected a Timberk SWH 30 storage water heater. It has a built-in RCD of 0.03 A on the power cord. Does it make sense to duplicate it with your RCD (ABB F202 / 16 / 0.01) connected to an outlet?

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TERMEX FLET

Setting the parameters of work. Operation and maintenance. Possible malfunctions.

TERMEX IR

Installation and connection. Maintenance and settings.

ARISTON ABS

VLS Inox PW / Evo PW, PRO Eco. Assembly and installation. Modes and functions. Replacement of internal elements. Error codes.

TERMEX REPAIR

The water heater IF 100V is in operation. He began to warm up slowly. Today I changed the heating element. The old workers rang. With new ones, it heats up just as slowly when I turn on the "take". It seems that one heating element heats faster. Six months ago I took off the heating elements to clean out the scale. They warmed normally, but about a week ago I somehow noticed that it began to warm up more slowly when both heating elements were in operation. What is the malfunction?

ARISTON REPAIR

Installed a boiler Ariston 50 liters. It worked correctly, and then after a few months the hot water pressure dropped. How to fix? The cold water pressure is very strong and we installed a reducer, and without it the device will hum constantly.

What is the risk of excess moisture in the soil

You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs perish. Why is this happening?

the content of oxygen in the soil decreases and the content of carbon dioxide increases, which leads to a violation of the processes of air exchange, water regime and diet in the soil;
oxygen starvation of the root-forming layer occurs, which leads to the death of plant roots;
the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disturbed, because excess water washes away the mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, putrefaction processes are activated.

Plants can tell you what level the groundwater is at

Take a closer look at the flora of your site. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:

top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
at a depth of up to 0.5 m - marigold, horsetails, varieties of sedges - bubbly, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass grow;
at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse peas, ranks;
from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.

What is important to know when planning the drainage of the site

Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:

at a depth of groundwater from 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow in high beds;
the depth of the water layer up to 1.5 m is well tolerated by vegetables, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), ornamental and fruit and berry shrubs, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
if the groundwater is at a depth of more than 2 m, fruit trees can be grown;
the optimum depth of groundwater for agriculture is from 3.5 m.

Do you need drainage of the site

Write down your observations at least for a while. You yourself can understand how much drainage is needed.

Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sedimentary water along a bypass channel, rather than letting them flow through your site?

Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil and this will be enough?

Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?

Draining water from the boiler

Boiler piping with a drain cock

Since we need to get to the inner parts of the boiler, the next step is to drain the water from it.

If the installation of the boiler was carried out strictly in accordance with the instructions attached to the water heater, then a tee with a ½ inch tap must be cut in the cold water supply system between the safety valve and the tank.

If a prudent installer on the outside of the faucet screwed in a fitting, then we just have to connect the hose to this fitting. The other end of the hose is lowered into the bathtub or toilet and the drain cock can be opened.

Only beforehand on the mixer it is necessary to open the hot water tap in order to balance the pressure outside and inside the boiler. Depending on the capacity of the boiler, the process of draining the water can take from several minutes to half an hour.

If you are unlucky, and there is no tee or relief valve, you must disconnect the cold water supply pipe along with the safety valve. Then push the hose directly onto the connection in the boiler. After draining all the water, you can proceed to dismantle the flange.

Technical features of connecting the boiler

If the diagram of the correct connection of the boiler to the water supply system has been drawn up, it is time to start its execution. In this case, much depends on which pipes were used to create the water supply system.

Steel pipes can often be found in old houses, although they are often replaced with more fashionable polypropylene or metal-plastic. When installing the boiler, you should take into account the peculiarities of working with pipes of various types.

There are no special requirements for the material of structures connecting the boiler and the water supply system. They can be connected even with a sufficiently strong hose of a suitable diameter and length.

Regardless of the type of pipes, before starting any work on connecting equipment to the water supply system, be sure to turn off the water supply in the risers.

How to connect a heater to steel pipes

For this, it is not necessary to use a welding machine, since the connection can be made using special tees, the so-called "vampires".

The design of such a tee resembles a conventional clamping clamp, on the sides of which there are nozzles. Their ends are already threaded.

To install the vampire tee, first place it in a suitable location and tighten with screws.

Between the metal part of the tee and the pipe, put the gasket that comes with the device

It is important that the gaps in the gasket and the tee for mounting the hole match exactly.

Then, using a metal drill, you need to make a hole in the pipe through a special gap in the pipe and rubber gasket. After that, a pipe or a hose is screwed onto the opening of the branch pipe, with the help of which water will be supplied to the heater.

To connect a storage water heater to a steel water supply system, use a metal coupling with special nozzles equipped with threads, onto which a shut-off valve, hose or pipe section can be screwed

The most important point when connecting a water heater is the sealing of all connections. To seal the threads, FUM tape, linen thread or other similar sealant is used. There should be enough such material, but not too much.

It is believed that if the seal protrudes slightly from under the threads, this will provide a sufficiently tight connection.

Working with polypropylene pipes

If the boiler is supposed to be connected to a polypropylene water supply system, you should immediately stock up on the stopcocks, tees and couplings intended for them.

In addition, you will need special equipment: a device for cutting such pipes, as well as a device for their soldering.

To connect a boiler to a polypropylene water supply, the following procedure is usually followed:

Shut off the water in the riser (sometimes you need to contact the housing office for this).
Use a cutter to cut the polypropylene pipes.
Solder tees in the branch points.
Connect the pipes for connecting the boiler to the water supply.
Install couplings and valves.
Connect the boiler to the tap with a hose.

If the water pipes are hidden in the wall, you will have to dismantle the finish in order to gain free access to them.

It happens that access to pipes laid in grooves is still significantly limited. In this case, a special split-type repair coupling can be used.

The polypropylene side of such a device is soldered onto a tee, and the threaded part is connected to the water supply. After that, the removable part of the coupling is removed from the structure.

To connect a water supply system made of PVC pipes to a storage water heater, you can use a special adapter, part of which is soldered to the pipe, and a hose can be screwed onto the other part.