Warm floor in the kitchen under the tiles: how to choose and install with your own hands

Preparatory work

It is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work before laying pipes for a warm water floor. Moreover, they occupy the lion's share of the labor costs of the entire installation.

Leveling the floor

First of all, the old screed is completely removed. If the base of the surface is not level enough, a new layer of leveling screed is required. Floor drops should not exceed 7-8 cm. This rule also applies to bulk floors. Slight differences in the floor can be filled with sand, thereby avoiding filling the leveling screed.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the leveled surface. In this case, it is necessary to launch on walls 15-20 cm, and overlap the strips of material. The joints of the film are glued with tape or special tape.

Following the waterproofing, they begin to install the damper tape around the perimeter of the room. Attach it to the walls. If the warm floor will be mounted from several circuits, a layer of damper tape is also required between them.

Damper tape

Foam polystyrene insulation boards are laid "joint to joint". If the slabs have a groove lock, no further action is required. If there is no lock, the joints of the slabs will have to be covered with sand-cement mortar and wait until it dries completely.

The last stage of preparation for the installation of a warm floor will be the laying of foil mats, which will serve as a heat-reflecting screen.

Fitting a heated cable floor in the kitchen

Preparing for installation

The adaptation of the floor from the cable begins with calculating the area of ​​the heated surface. For this, a kitchen plan is prepared with the placement of stationary furniture and appliances, however, this does not apply to furniture on legs.

The required area will be equal to the difference between the areas of the kitchen and the surface occupied by these items.

To calculate the length of the heating part, the specific power value is multiplied with the calculated area value. The value of the specific power is normalized and cannot be more than 120 watts per m2 when operating the system for additional heating and be more than 150 watts per m2 if it is the main heat source.

In a number of works of the preparatory type, it also makes sense to note the demolition of the coating, which has already become obsolete, with further leveling of the base. If necessary, you can use specialized mixtures for leveling.

The next step is to prepare the site for installing the thermostat. Using a puncher, a niche is prepared in the wall, which is necessary for the dimensions of the mounting box of the device, and further down the wall surface and the floor a groove for cables - power, sensor, etc. Into the channel along the surface of the base parallel to the direction of laying TENA

lay a corrugated tube - a place for the sensor. The plugged end of the corrugated tube should be approximately 6 cm from the wall surface. The groove is covered with plaster.

Cable laying

A reflective heat insulator is laid on the cleaned and leveled subfloor with the foil side up, gluing the joints with tape. A tape for installation work is attached to the insulation, with the help of it the heating sections will be fixed. For this, specialized brackets are provided on it. The tape is attached to the base using dowel-nails. The cable is laid in the same way, smoothly, without kinks and intersections. After that, the parts are poured with a concrete screed with a layer of 3-5 cm. After the final hardening of the screed

the decorative coating is applied according to the standard technology.

The first switching on of the heating system is done after at least 28 days - the time required for the final hardening of the screed.

Underfloor heating under tiles

Tiles are a special material, because due to their high heat conductivity, they are suitable for any kind of heated floor. Thermomats are recognized as the best option for heating tiled floors. The mat used for heating is a fiberglass mesh on which TENA shielded parts are fixed. In the process of making the latter, a technique is used, thanks to which hot and cold pieces are combined without the use of couplings. This option provides complete reliability of the sections.

The thermomat device is performed in stages:

Make up the layout of thermomats

It should be borne in mind that electrical heating parts are not placed in the places where furniture is placed. They select a place for the thermostat, where they equip the junction box. Then they pierce a groove in the wall and on the base, along which the connecting wires and the sensor will be laid. Prepare the floor surface: remove third-party objects, debris, if necessary, equalize and carefully primed with an acrylic primer of good penetration

The primer is applied with a paint roller. Thermomats will be rolled out in accordance with the developed scheme, starting from the thermal converter, and the system will be verified for working capacity.

Attention

If necessary, for example, when walking around corners, the fiberglass mesh is carefully cut so as not to damage the heating component. These actions insist on special care, as there is a risk of damage to the heating cable. When turning the mat, the net should stay down. Do not allow the thermomat to cross or overlap one by one.

Installation of tiles on a mat is carried out according to the standard technology of working with tiles. When laying tile coverings, it is best to use plastic spatulas - they are much safer for insulating a thermal cable.

There should be no empty spaces in the tile adhesive, because air bubbles significantly reduce the heat conductivity of the floor.

Grouting and gluing are best done with elastic mixtures that are resistant to heat deformation.

The system is started after the final drying of the glue.

Nowadays, thin infrared floors are becoming more and more popular, the laying of which is reduced to performing several light procedures, like installing floors from a thermomat. An indispensable requirement for the operation of this variation is the laying of reflective thermal insulation to reduce the expected heat loss.

Pros and cons of underfloor heating

The advantages of underfloor heating are quite obvious. To begin with, it should be canceled that cold air, as everyone knows, is concentrated in the lower part of the air layers, therefore, warming it up by only a few degrees with the help of a warm floor will certainly lead to tangible warming in the entire room.

An important advantage of underfloor heating is its alternative as a source of heating. This system can be installed independently of conventional steam heating. At the same time, the temperature regime can be easily adjusted separately for each room. This function is especially indispensable in those periods when there is no heating yet or no longer. It is also convenient that the heating can be switched on selectively in any room, plus it is possible to set the heating timer for any day and hour.

Another indisputable advantage of underfloor heating is a distinctive feature of the underfloor heating concept - its ability to prevent high humidity in the room. This function becomes especially relevant in those rooms and rooms where there is often high humidity.Usually this is a bathroom, bathroom, vestibule, hallway, basement, etc. In such rooms, only a floor heating system can provide the best possible dehumidification.

If you look at the shortcomings more specifically, the result may be surprising. You can start with the first minus - electromagnetic radiation. This drawback is more a myth than a truth, because it arose in those days when the underfloor heating system was considered a rarity and was carried out mainly only by self-taught craftsmen. They usually had no idea about quality standards and GOSTs. If we talk about modern electrical systems for underfloor heating, then they undergo regular test checks, where it is absolutely precisely proven that the radiation emanating from the underfloor heating is not higher than in ordinary electrical wiring in the walls.

If we consider such a disadvantage as dry air in the room, then we should remember about traditional radiators, which dry the air even more. In such cases, it is not necessary to regulate the level of humidity in the room with a warm floor, but with specially designed air humidifiers.

Water floors in the kitchen: advantages and installation

Water-heated floors are timeless classics, although they are not often found in apartments. The system itself consists of pipes and a heat source - a boiler, a common riser or a heater. The pipes use a liquid that transfers heat. Water most often plays this role, but antifreeze is often used. The latter is used for summer cottages and other non-residential buildings, which may be empty during cold weather.

Water heated floors

If you use ordinary water, then when the pipes freeze, it can burst, which will require major repairs.

The advantages of this floor include:

1. Profitability. Compared to electrical systems, such a system has little effect on utility bills.
2. Heating intensity regulation. By placing the loops closer or further, the floor temperature can be controlled. Thus, cooling from external walls and windows is leveled.
3. Durability. A properly installed system can last over 20 years.

Of course, along with the advantages, there are also disadvantages:

1. High cost. For such a system, you will need to purchase a bunch of additional equipment, spend money on high-quality leveling of the floor.
2. Complexity of installation. Water heated floors require a perfectly flat base. The pipe bends must also not exceed the specified limit.
3. Difficulties in the repair. In order to fix a breakdown, you will most likely have to remove all the coating and break the screed.
4. Gradual cooling. The liquid that carries heat gradually loses it, and at the end of the path of the system, there may be barely warm water or antifreeze in the pipe.

In addition, you cannot make such a warm floor in the kitchen with your own hands: you will need the help of specialists.

The very process of installing such heating includes several stages:

• preparatory - preparing the base, warming, insulation;
• the main one is pipe laying;
• final - the final screed, laying the floor covering.

The preparatory stage begins with the fact that the floor is leveled using a special mixture to a state where the difference does not exceed 3 mm. This issue must be approached thoroughly, since tilt can greatly affect performance.

Further, on top of the base, heat, sound and moisture insulation is laid. This improves efficiency and avoids heat loss.

The main stage involves laying pipes. Regardless of the method chosen - snake, double snake or snail - attachment can be used with:

• special mounting mat with bosses;
• iron fastenings;
• grooves in the floor.

The latter method is more often used if the base was initially ready and, in order to save space, the owner wants to minimize the loss of height.

An example of laying flexible pipes on a special mesh

When laying, remember:

• distance to heating centers - 10 cm;
• distance from walls - 5 cm;
• more turns can be made near windows and outside walls.

In apartments, the most optimal scheme is a double snake - it provides uniform heating.

Once the pipes are laid, a test run is done. If no leaks or malfunctions are found, a final screed is made, on top of which the tiles will be located.

All installation work takes about 28 days.

The advantages are obvious

An ordinary apartment is supplied with heat from central heating, which is the minimum necessary for living space. Somewhere this is more than enough, but somewhere they don't even feel it. And then radiators, air heaters and other heaters, which constitute the second heat front, are brought into the light of God. But with all these tricks, it is often not possible to regulate the room temperature to a comfortable one. Having gone too far with the temperature, we will have to open the vents during the thaw in order to somehow ventilate the room. And so it turns out - sometimes too hot, sometimes too cold.

This is where the work of the underfloor heating comes to the fore, which, with the help of a thermostat, will allow you to regulate the temperature in the room exactly to the temperature that is comfortable for you. With the help of the sensor, you can find out the temperature of the floor and air in the room, and the thermostat will help to regulate the daily temperature cycle. In the evening and at night, a higher temperature is needed, and during the day, when there is usually no one in the apartment, you can reduce the heat to a minimum.

It so happens that other sources of heat do not warm our feet too much, which should always be warm. But the warm floor primarily affects them. As a result, even a pinpoint impact on the feet alone might be enough to make you feel protected. And here there is also excellent protection not only for the legs, but also for the whole body. If your feet are well warmed, your whole body temperature will be within the correct range. And at the same time, you do not have to hold your feet over any heating unit to warm them up and then freeze them again while you unlearn somewhere away from the heat source. You just walk on the floor and get warm.

Unlike other heat sources, this type of flooring is not point-like.

The floor heats up over the entire area, and thanks to the good level of heat transfer, the entire room is evenly heated. By the way, this will also save on electricity.

Underfloor heating controller operation

A thermostat is an equipment that regulates the temperature regime of water floors according to the specified parameters. Along with it, devices are used that control the level of heating of the floor surface and air in the room. The servo drive acts as a regulator of heat supply.

The thermostat works like this: it checks the room temperature, compares it with the set value, then gives a command to the system about turning it on and off. They act this way only indirectly. The thermostat tells the servo, while it twists the tap, adjusting the water flow rate. In a water device, such a reaction can be delayed: it is associated with the gradual filling of pipes with water.

The thermostat carefully controls the temperature when the floor becomes one source of heating. By adjusting the degree of heating of the floor surface, it significantly increases comfort. Certain types of thermostats can control the condition of the air and floor.

The principle of operation of this device is as follows:

• Temperature readings are displayed on its body, they are set independently.
• If they have changed by at least one division, the thermostat gives a command to increase or decrease the amount of supplied heat.
• This interaction results in precise temperature control.

Way out

But not so long ago (the time frame is of course very relative, but still) mankind learned about warm floors, which became a real breakthrough in the field of construction and finishing work. I installed such a floor - and already with much more enthusiasm, you can go to the bathroom with bare feet, let the child play on the floor in his room and cook dinner in one pair of socks. And all this without fear of catching a cold and making a lot of trouble. Warm floors are so attractive and pleasant that they can even make you sit and lie on this covering, if you are tired of using chairs, armchairs and sofas for this purpose.

Electric underfloor heating pitfalls

As a rule, even the very first frosts can show that in proportion to the decrease in temperature outside the window, the central heating batteries are also cooled. The way out of this situation is the installation of a classic electric underfloor heating. You can install it even in a new apartment, even in an old house. But, of course, it should be remembered that it is still better to carry out its installation at the stage of repair, so as not to dismantle the old floors.

The installation technology includes, first of all, laying the heat-insulating layer on the interfloor ceiling, after which - the separating screed, and on it - the installation of the underfloor heating system. It looks like an electric cable laid out in a certain step. A step is usually called the distance between its zigzags. An ideal step is considered to be a step equal to 10-15 cm. A screed is poured onto this floor from above, and a floor covering is placed on it. It looks simple, but this is only at first glance.

In case of legal actions, you should call a company that has the appropriate license from the Ministry of Construction. Perhaps this fact can be attributed to the disadvantages of a warm floor, but only because of the duration of the entire procedure for obtaining a permit. This problem can be solved, of course, at the expense of "left" firms, which will install a warm floor without paperwork. But this is a double-edged sword.

First of all, such firms offer customers only the installation of the cheapest heating systems, often Chinese ones, which do not even have a quality certificate. This will mean that your underfloor heating will not meet government standards, and will most likely fail after a certain period of time. The second serious disadvantage that follows from the previous one is the fact that hardly anyone will undertake to repair your equipment.

Cabling

The heating section is powered by electricity, therefore, first of all, it is necessary to think over the place for the thermostat. This device controls the operation of underfloor heating. It has a built-in thermostat in the form of a metal plate, which is sensitive to temperature changes. It closes or disconnects the electrical network. The sensitivity can be 2-1 degrees or 0.5 degrees.

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The thermostat is installed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the floor. If the sections are laid in several circuits, then it is recommended to provide a junction box. The regulator is selected with the appropriate number of outputs for the local network.

The ends of the heating cable are laid in a corrugated tube and fed to a control device. For corrugation on the wall and on the floor, a strobe is provided.

The temperature sensor measures the floor temperature. It is located in a separate corrugation. For the sensor, choose a place between the turns of the cable. The distance from the boundary of the heated surface must be at least 30 cm.

The cable is recommended to be removed from the place where the thermostat is installed. The section is installed according to the marking, maintaining a step of 10-15 cm. In places of bending, a loop radius of 10 cm is observed. In order for the floor to warm up evenly in all areas, the section is taken out with a double "snail" or double "snake".

A single-core conductor is connected with two ends to the thermostat. A two-core cable is connected to the network at one end. "Warm floor" in the kitchen from the section is laid under the tiles.

Floor heating screed

When the warm floor is mounted, it is poured on top with a layer of screed. Do this on pipes under pressure. So they will calmly withstand a significant load.

Screed concrete is prepared with the addition of fine-grained crushed stone or profile mixtures are used. The grade of the mortar is preferable not lower than M300, it should not delaminate and set quickly.

Screed on a warm water floor

A screed is performed on a warm floor in the following order:

• On the solution, metal beacons are fixed at the level with a step suitable for the dimensions of the existing rule.
• The prepared solution is poured in parts onto the floor, starting from the far wall. With the help of the rule it is stretched in the direction "towards itself", aligned, lightly rammed with tapping movements.

Attention! The thickness of the screed over the pipes must be at least 30 mm. This will allow the concrete to warm up evenly.

The maximum permissible thickness is 100 mm.

The next day after pouring, the lighthouses are removed, and the grooves from them are sealed with a grinder (a semi-dry mixture of sand and cement). On the same day, all the imperfections of the fill are cleaned up - influxes, traces of the rule, etc. This is done using an ordinary wooden floor polisher.

Warm floor under the laminate

The screed will fully "mature" no sooner than in 4 weeks. Until this time, the new heating system must not be switched on. This is fraught with cracks in the screed. Forcibly drying the screed by heating is strictly prohibited. Remember, the longer the concrete dries, the stronger it becomes.

Now the matter remains with the flooring and you can enjoy the warm floor in a new cozy apartment.

It is quite possible to carry out the installation of a water-heated floor with your own hands in an apartment if you have minimal construction skills and take a responsible approach to studying all the nuances and subtleties of the process.

Water heat-insulated floor: characteristic features and installation

The simplest option, which is possible to do-it-yourself installation, is a water-heated floor.
The simplest option that can be installed with your own hands is a water-heated floor. Operating by supplying hot water, the system can be powered by an autonomous heater or a centralized heating system. However, it is rarely recommended to install a water floor in multi-storey buildings, since the water supply is designed for a certain volume and the installation of the system often leads to interruptions, which may not please your neighbors.

Ideal in terms of minimal cost and performance, the floor heats up very evenly, it can be mounted in an extension or in extremely limited space, and such a system is inexpensive. But it is important to understand that the structure significantly increases the thickness of the floor due to the cement screed. The stages of work are as follows:

1. Dismantle the old coating and clean, level the base;
2. After the leveling screed has dried, lay a layer of heat insulator with the shiny side up;
3. Lay out the pipe system according to the desired scheme, avoiding furniture installation places, connect to the collector / hot water supply source, as shown in the video;
4. Test the system for leaks;
5. Pour the structure with a concrete screed made from the ready-mixed mixture, level the base and let it dry;
6. Apply glue and lay out the tiles.

The finished heated floor in the kitchen under the tiles can be equipped with a thermostat and set the ideal temperature, comfortable for living. Another advantage that a water floor has is that it warms up not only the floor itself, but also the air in the room. The minimum cost of operation is also important, which makes the water floor the most acceptable for houses with autonomous heating.

Manifold assembly

Install a manifold before piping. It is selected based on the number of circuits and the desired heating control capability.

Manifold assembly

The simplest manifolds are equipped only with shut-off valves. The regulation of their work and the setting of heating parameters are almost impossible. For these purposes, collectors with additional control valves are selected.

Attention! The collector must be equipped with an air vent valve and a drain pipe.

The collector is installed in a special metal cabinet, the dimensions of which are selected individually. The standard thickness is 12 cm, which allows it to be "drowned" in the wall niche.

The main rules for installing the collector:

1. It is prohibited to deepen the manifold cabinet into the load-bearing walls.
2. The cabinet is positioned so that it is equidistant from all circuits. If the contours are of different lengths, the cabinet is brought closer to a longer one.
3. The cabinet is raised above the floor level for the functioning of the ventilation system. There should be enough space under the cabinet to accommodate and bend all pipe outlets.

For details on the assembly of the collector and its operation, see the video below.

You can do without a warm floor if

• Your kitchen has wood or linoleum floors. In this case, there can be no question of any heating. The high temperature of the heating system will negatively affect the flooring, the wood will dry out, and the linoleum, due to its chemical composition, will release phenol, which is harmful to human health;
• The kitchen faces south. This arrangement will allow the sun's rays to warm up the room and maintain a comfortable temperature without additional heating systems;
• You have just recently completed your renovation. Underfloor heating installation is dirty and dusty. The job requires complete removal of the top deck and preparation of the floor. If you have not thought about laying the warm floor in advance, at the stage of planning the repair, then after its completion it is unreasonable to start the repair work anew and spoil the coating;
• The house has old wiring. Since the old wiring may not cope with the load, experts strongly advise replacing the entire electrical network in the house before laying the warm floor. If this is not possible now, then it is better to refuse from the additional floor heating system in the kitchen.

As you can see, there are enough arguments "for" and "against" laying the underfloor heating system. Weigh each of them and decide if you and your kitchen need such a floor?

Underfloor heating project

It is necessary to determine the size of the heated area. Draw up a schematic floor plan. The size of the kitchen unit, refrigerator, other household stationary equipment and furniture is noted on it. Under them, the "warm floor" is not laid.

• 30 cm recede from the interior.
• From the walls that remain free, an indent of 15 cm is made.
• Apartments in the city are heated by radiators. Floor heating is removed at a distance of 15 cm from the devices.
• The heated surface accounts for 70% of the total active area of ​​the room.

When choosing electrical systems, the consumption rate for the kitchen is taken into account. If underfloor heating is used as the main heating, the power must be at least 150 W / m2. If the system is installed for additional underfloor heating, then the optimal power is 120 W / m2.

When using cable sections or liquid lines, it is necessary to determine the length of the loop and the laying spacing.

• For liquid heating, a cross-linked polyethylene pipe is used, which is made with the use of peroxides.
• Diameter 16 mm.
• If the laying step is 15 cm, then 6.7 m of pipe will be needed per 1 m2.
• At a coolant temperature of 30 ° C, the floor temperature will be 18 ° C. When the thermal regime of the liquid is 33 ° C, the floor will warm up to 22 ° C.

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The power of the cable section is calculated depending on the size of the active area. Heating 10 m2 requires 1 kW of energy. Select the appropriate section. The length of the cable is determined by the manufacturer.Laying is carried out in 10-15 cm increments.

Mats, carbon rods and thermal foil are chosen with a power of 150 W / m2. It is recommended to carry out a drawing of laying the highway, film or mats. On it, markings are performed on the base of the floor, which will facilitate installation work.

It is necessary to test the main wiring in the house. Its capacity must correspond to the energy consumption of the "warm floor" and all household items that operate on electricity. Otherwise, when connecting floor heating, the network will not cope with the high load; there is a risk of an emergency.

If the kitchen area is 20 m2, then the heated surface can be only 10 m2. The heating system requires an average power of 1 kW. A pipeline with a diameter of 16 mm requires 67 m, a cable section of about 71 m. The choice of mats and thermal films depends on the size of the heating elements.

Before installing the "warm floor" in the kitchen, it is necessary to prepare the surface. It should be insulated and protected from condensation that occurs when the temperature changes.

The heating elements are placed on a foil-coated substrate. If the systems are mounted on a concrete base, then the finishing surface is recommended to be made of screed or tile adhesive.

For a wooden floor, a lathing is performed. When using thermal film under the laminate, no screed is required. If it is planned to lay linoleum on the floor, then the system is recommended to be closed with plasterboard plates. Thermal foil tiles are not suitable.

Pipe laying

Before installing the pipes, a reinforcing mesh is laid on the prepared surface. The size of its cells should correspond to or be a multiple of the step size for the convenience of further work. The cross section of the rods is 3-5 mm. Fragments of the mesh are fastened together with wire.

Pipe laying

The layout of the water floor pipes, oddly enough, is the easiest stage in installation. They start it from the street wall, stepping back 10-20 cm. Then the pipes are laid according to the prescribed scheme. It is necessary to bend the pipes carefully so that stretch marks (white transverse stripes) do not form on them, otherwise they will be unsuitable for further use.

Attention! It is impossible to spin the entire pipe reel at once. This is done gradually, as the installation progresses .. When all the pipes are laid according to the scheme, they begin to fix them on the reinforcing mesh

To do this, use nylon clamps with a frequency of 30-40 cm

When all the pipes are laid according to the scheme, they begin to fix them on the reinforcing mesh. To do this, use nylon clamps with a frequency of 30-40 cm.

You can see the process of laying water pipes for heating in more detail in the video.

Using clamping fittings, the ends of the pipes are connected to the supply and return connections of the manifold, after which a leak test is carried out. To do this, the system is filled with water and, using a domestic pump, a pressure of 5-6 bar is created inside the pipes. When checking the tightness of the system, all air valves on the manifold must be removed and the holes below them must be plugged. They are not designed for high pressure pressures and may fail during testing.

Thermal film laying

The thermal film is produced in rolls. It is placed on a flat base. Cutting the film is allowed only along the dotted lines. The conductor is a copper plate and a silver plating. The tapes are connected in parallel to each other; use the crab terminals. All joints are insulated with bitumen tape.

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The temperature sensor and the connecting cable from the tapes are laid in corrugated tubes, brought along the strobe to the thermostat. Before connecting, it is necessary to check the resistance of materials. The indicator is indicated on the regulator panel, on the tape and on the power outlet.

If the result is positive, the system is connected and tested. I close the film with a backing. Its thickness should not exceed 3 mm. Next, the floor cladding is formed.

Liquid heating is used for underfloor heating only in country houses. The water line is connected to the manifold. From it, the circuit is diverted to the heat exchanger. The system is equipped with automation. It is represented by a three-way valve with a thermal head.

A circulation pump is installed on the comb. The mains are taken out on the rough floor on their own, it is recommended to entrust the connection to the comb and to the boiler to professionals.

Electric heating systems are used in city apartments. If there is no skill in working with electricity, then they turn to qualified specialists.

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Pluses of electrical systems

These systems are highly efficient as they provide heating to the entire floor surface.

The use of a shielded cable with good multi-layer insulation makes heating with electricity completely harmless.

Due to the temperature adjustment of the floor, you can make less energy consumption and save money due to this.

Underfloor heating in the kitchen guarantees a comfortable indoor climate, as the temperature in the leg area is higher than at the head level. In addition, the level of moisture in the room is regularly kept at the required level, the presence of dust in the air is reduced.

Underfloor heating should be installed if

• The kitchen is adjacent to the balcony. In this case, the underfloor heating system will provide a comfortable microclimate in both rooms. You will be able to regulate the temperature level in the room on your own, and even the balcony glazing of average quality will not interfere with maintaining the optimal mode in the room;
• A child lives in the house. Children spend about 80 percent of their time on the floor: playing, crawling, lying, etc. And if in the living room and bedroom there is often a carpet or rug on the floor on which the child can comfortably sit, then in the kitchen the floor is usually bare. It is then that a warm floor will come to the rescue, it will protect the health of households and save children from hypothermia and colds;
• It is planned to finish the floor with ceramic tiles. One of the most common kitchen flooring options is tiles. It is no secret that this material is beautiful in appearance, practical in everyday life, but unpleasant to the touch because of its coldness. If you and your household are not fond of walking around the house in slippers or socks, then a warm floor is an ideal solution to the problem of a ceramic floor in the kitchen;
• The apartment is located above the basement. If you live in an apartment building, you probably know that basements are not heated additionally. Therefore, residents of the first and second floors often suffer from cold in their own dwelling, coming from below. The underfloor heating system will partially help to solve it. Experts recommend installing it not only in the living room or bedroom, but also in the kitchen. the cold will spread from there;
• The main heating system is defective. It is not uncommon for the central heating system to be installed poorly, and because of this, it is cold in the apartment during the winter. In such a situation, the insulation of the kitchen floor will be an excellent alternative to the heating system, its installation will cost several times cheaper than overhaul and replacement of the pipeline and batteries.

After the listed advantages, the underfloor heating system seems to be an indispensable thing in every home. But in contrast to all the advantages, arguments can be made when a warm floor loses its relevance.

Reasons not to install underfloor heating under furniture

There are two main reasons:

• Lack of ventilation under heavy interior items worsens the transfer of heat to neighboring areas, which increases the risk of overheating and breakage of heating elements if they do not have a self-regulating effect.
• Most of the thermal energy generated under large furniture and household appliances (wall, sofa, washing machine or dishwasher) is spent inefficiently, since almost all of it is spent on heating these items.

Both issues are interconnected and really important. To avoid excessive consumption of electricity and repair of the electric floor, there is a smart solution - to provide a gap of at least 3-5 cm between each massive object and the floor covering. For this, furniture and appliances must have legs, and in their absence, additional supports made of durable material are used.

However, there are situations when there is simply no need to heat the flooring under the furniture.

• If heated floors are an additional source of heating. In this case, less power is needed, therefore, it is enough to lay the heating elements only in passages where you want to create a more comfortable microclimate.
• Under the furniture in the kitchen. If we turn to experience and practice, it is easy to find out that the kitchen set serves unchanged for a long time. But even when replacing the entire structure, the new kit is almost always installed in the place of the old one. That is, the section of the floor underneath it almost certainly turns out to be closed for many years and ineffective for heating. Therefore, it can be completely excluded even at the planning stage of options for heated floors for the kitchen.

How to choose the right coating

First of all, one should be guided by the type of the selected room, where it is planned to install a warm floor under the tiles. The selected material must have a number of characteristics, such as resistance to possible deformation, durability, strength and fire resistance. Maintenance of the coating should be minimal, and it is recommended to choose a non-slippery surface. This will help reduce the possible risk of injury in the future.

Installation can be carried out on such coatings:

• bulk;
• cork;
• tiled.

Self-leveling floor

It is considered to be the main competitor of ceramic coatings. It is quite environmentally friendly and functional, while not afraid of temperature changes and mechanical damage. Elastic, which will allow you to drop the dishes without harm to the latter. Such a coating has a considerable operational life, which is calculated in decades. At the same time, the choice of the material used is quite extensive. The main disadvantage is the cost, and not every master can do the installation on his own.

Cork floor

It is made from balsa wood, or rather from its bark. Able to give the room the necessary comfort, like any other natural material. Such a material will not only retain heat in the room, but also have a positive effect on human well-being. Not classified as materials containing allergens. It repels moisture and practically does not burn. It is often used as high-quality and, most importantly, cheap sound insulation. It does not absorb odors, so you can safely use it in the kitchen. Expensive breeds will not be cheap, so it is better to entrust their styling to specialists. If gaps are formed at the time of installation, then the integrity of the coating will be violated, and moisture will penetrate into its base, which will eventually destroy it.

Tiled floor

It can be prestigious to use tiles or ceramics, because its cost can be exorbitant. Experienced craftsmen are able to lay out entire paintings, making the tiled floor almost an exhibition or museum piece. An amateur can also do its styling, because it is not necessary to make a masterpiece, the main thing is to lay out the material used evenly. The top layer of the floor covering is resistant to shock, sunlight and household chemicals. It will not be difficult to choose the right color, since its variety can amaze everyone. The disadvantages include a rather slippery surface, and you can say goodbye to the fallen dishes right away. If it is not heated, it will always be cold.Installation requires a clean and level base.